Steel Raven Farms

Where muck boots meet ground.

Animals

Top Mistakes With Goats

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We all know that I love my goats. Probably more than most people. They are seriously the coolest creatures on our farm. But there are some very common mistakes with goats that I would love to clear up today. I’ve talked before about goats not being beginner livestock and I will say it again and again. Before you get into goats, lets learn somethings about them.

Before You Decide Goats Are “Hard”

Most frustration with goats comes from starting with the wrong assumptions — not from the goats themselves.

If you’re new to goats, bonding and trust come before routines or productivity:
👉 How I Bond With Goats on a Working Homestead

Most Common Mistakes With Goats

Goats Are Easy To Take Care Of

They are NOT the easiest thing to take care of. In fact, far from it! Out of all of my animals, the chickens are the easiest not the goats. We are constantly battling worms in the summer. Getting them through winter tends to be iffy if they had a ton of worms in the summer. Spring is kidding season. I think the only “safe” season is fall but we are still dealing with bucks in rut, worms, and feed.

We are currently battling coccidia with our kids and are trying like hell to keep everyone healthy. But unfortunately, summer in Georgia is a goat killer. Between the heat, worms, forage issues? It’s stressful. One of the ways that we combat the worms is by only worming when necessary. That includes coccidia. But summer is a scary time for us. Another way is pasture rotation and free ranging.

Brown and white goat

You Can Get One Goat

Goats are herd and prey animals. In order to feel safe and happy, they need other goats to hang out with. Without having a companion, they will get depressed, lonely, and will not thrive. Do yourself a favor and get two.

When we lost V and Bella was our only goat for two days, she literally Houdinied us every couple of hours. I don’t even remember how many times she took off. Finally, we had to tether her because she wouldn’t stay in the pin. As soon as we got Midas in with her? She never broke out again **knocks on all the wood**

While on the topic of only getting one goat, do yourself a favor and get two goats whenever you are bringing new goats into your herd. We have always brought home at least two goats every time we purchase new stock. The last time, we didn’t. Poor Phoenix doesn’t have anyone that will play with her. She is a lone goat in the herd because everyone is already paired up. Thankfully, she is a pocket goat and really just wants our attention. Which is fine, except we can’t always be out there with her.

You don’t HAVE to do this, but it does help transition if there is another new goat to buddy up with.

Goats Can Eat Anything

No. Just no. I saw a post on Marketplace a couple days ago for last years hay. Good for mulching, raised beds, or goats…. Excuse me? I can promise you, if you feed that kind of hay to your goats, they will die. Period. Moldy, old, dirty, hay will kill your goat. They really need horse quality hay because they can get sick so easily. Let’s not mention that they cannot eat a tin can.

When we got Oakley and Bailey, then Spike, Jade, and Sapphire, they got into mountain laurel. Thankfully, we were able to pull them through but it was touch and go for a minute. There are tons of toxic plants to them, and usually they are good about not eating it. But they are very curious creatures.

Goats Are Stupid

These creatures are more intelligent than dogs. They are also incredibly curious, which gets them into a ton of trouble. Champ knows how to get into pasture two, where she doesn’t belong. We have tried various ways to keep her out but none of them work. So she ends up in pasture two. A lot.

All of the goats know that if they scream loud enough, for long enough, they will get extra grain and alfalfa in the mornings. So no, they are not stupid.

We have trained our goats to feed buckets in case of a break out. We’ve trained them to a dinner bell like this, if they are too far away to hear the bucket. Goats are incredibly smart.

No Fence Will Hold A Goat

This is borderline when it comes to goats. I have noticed that if they are kept fat and happy they will probably not try to escape. BUT if they want something on the other side of the fence? They are going to go get it. We manage to keep two bucks from the girls simply by making sure that the fence is secure and they have a buddy.

There are some goats that cannot be contained without resorting to tethering. While that is not ideal, especially if you have high predator loads, you’ve got to do what you’ve got to do. We had to tether Bella until she became more comfortable with us. We also had to tether Midas because he was so stressed out when we brought him home.

Goats Only Eat Weeds

Not true! Goats prefer browse, which is plants with woody stems. However, goats are actually Growsers, meaning they will graze and browse. They will eat weeds, trees, hay, grasses, fruit, veggies, etc. Just like you prefer certain foods, so do they.

It is important to pay attention to what they are avoiding though. If you have a patch of some sort of weed, and the goats are eating everything but that weed, go ahead and remove that weed. It’s probably something that they shouldn’t eat.

Goats Are Not Intuitive Eaters

This is a pretty hot button topic among most goat owners. It’s kind of like the deworming or disbudding argument, you’ve got people for and against it. In that vein, I’m going to give you my opinion and experience, you do with it what you will.

My goats are intuitive eaters. If they have access to plenty of forage, they will not touch toxic plants like Mountain Laurel, Beefsteak plant, and Rhododendrons. But as soon as forage starts to die back and only toxic plants are available, they may start to eat it.

This goes for minerals as well. There is a huge debate about whether or not you should have free choice loose mineral or a mineral buffet. We’ve done both and have found that our goats will clear out entire buckets of one or two minerals and leave the rest alone. So again, I do think that goats are intuitive eaters.

Unfortunately, we do not have the time, space or set up to really have an effective mineral buffet, so we went back to free choice loose minerals.

Once expectations are realistic, goats become far easier to live with.

👉 How I Build Trust and Routine With My Goats

These Are Just A Few Of The Mistakes I’ve Noticed

There are many, many more mistakes with goats but those are the biggest ones that I feel need to be addressed. I know that I have a ton of different posts about goats and sound like a broken record, but these really are important.

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How To Bond With Your Goats

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If you are lucky enough to win over the love of a skittish goat, count yourself lucky. Bella is my most skittish goat and will run as fast and as far as her short little legs will take her if anyone comes anywhere near her. But when she is scared or hurting? She looks to me and that is pretty amazing. So if you have a skittish goat, or have a new goat that you are looking to bond with, here is a couple hacks to bond with your goats.

Bonding isn’t about making goats friendly — it’s about building trust so handling, health checks, and daily care don’t turn into a fight.

If you’re new to goats, start here first:
👉 What It’s Really Like to Raise Goats on a Working Homestead

Before Bonding With Your Goat

Before we get into bonding with your goats, I want to first address something. Unless your goat was born on your farm, your new goat is stressed to the max. They were ripped away from their herd, thrust into a box (or car, crate, whatever), and transported to a new farm. Then they were dumped in a fence with new goats and people that they don’t know. If you are bringing home babies? This is the first time without their momma. This goat is freaked out. No matter how good your intentions are, or how good of an owner you are, you are a stranger.

So before you thrust yourself on to them and then wonder why they are running away from you, give them some time to just be. Let them figure out where they are, who their new goat friends are, and the pecking order that they are now probably at the bottom of. Let them destress as much as possible. Realistically, this will probably take a couple weeks of regular feeding and treats. It could take longer depending on your goat.

Be prepared to deal with sickness. Whether that is in the form of diarrhea from a change in food, or a worm bloom from stress. Stay on top of their health!

You can get my goat assessment sheet for free by subscribing! The box is near the top of the page.

Bonding makes daily care easier — trimming hooves, checking eyes, monitoring health — all of it depends on trust.

This is how I structure daily animal care so it stays consistent without being overwhelming:
👉 My Realistic Homestead Daily Schedule

Bond With Your Goat: The Hacks

There are several different ways to bond with your goats, but at the end of the day it’s really up to your goat. Not every goat will be socialized. Not every goat wants to be around humans. More importantly, not every goat is going to trust humans. But with a little time and effort, you should be able to at least tame your goat enough to know their ticks and maybe, just maybe, get some snuggles.

When we got Bella and V, we realized that we were going to have our work cut out for us with Bella. At first, we thought she was just antisocial and didn’t want anything to do with us. After a while we realized that she was scared of us and didn’t trust us. Every time we had to grab her horns and force her where we need her to go, it set us back. But what were we supposed to do? We needed to trim her hooves, administer medications and just be able to care for her.

After V died and Bella was alone for a few days, I thought maybe she would start to trust us, but she seemed to distrust us even more. When we got Midas, he became very untrusting towards us because he spent the first two weeks with Bella. Since Bella wouldn’t come near us, neither would Midas. It took about six months before Midas would come near us willingly. So what can you do?

Hack #1: Time

Give them time. Let them decompress and learn that you are safe. Sometimes the best way to do that is to let them see you with your other goats.

Goats are very smart creatures and will see how you treat their herd mates and will judge you accordingly. So be patient.

Also, don’t rush. If you’ve got a spastic child (my Jaxson), maybe don’t let them love on the brand new, completely freaked out goat. If you are spastic (myself), be calm and understanding.

Hack #2: Pin Them Up

I talk about goat basics in my Goat Crash Course: Goat 101, but the biggest thing that we noticed with our new girls was that if we let them run wild in the pen, they would take longer to come around to us.

What we would do is put them on the small side of our barn that is used for laboring moms, moms that just kidded, or when we separate for goat sharing. This would keep them from running away from us and us having to chase them down. For a prey animal, being chased is literally the worse thing you could do.

When you keep them pinned up and bring them food and water, they see you as the giver of delicious nom noms. They also see that you are safe and won’t hurt them.

Hack #3:Treats

Seriously, treats are the best. We get “apple crack”, which is a goat probiotic in pellet form. Even Bella will come running for apple crack. A word of caution. Do not give empty calorie treats like crackers, cookies, etc. These can actually mess up their rumen and that is not good.

But anything can be a treat in moderation. We also give small pieces of apple, carrots, cucumbers, etc. They see it as a treat and it allows us to reinforce that they are safe and we are the bringers of delicious nom noms.

If you don’t have an issue with alcohol, get your goats drunk…. I’m only kind of joking. But the reality is that goats actually benefit from a beer occasionally. It helps their rumen function. Plus, it’s delicious.

Hack #4: Forced Snuggles

I did this with Bella and Spike with mixed success. A lot of people swear by this because it really does work. You basically force the goat to accept your love. The good news it is, it mostly works. Unless you have a Bella.

Bella LOVES to be snuggled when she is stuck in the barn, scared or laboring. If she is outside the barn? She totally forgets that I am a friend and I love her, and will run for the hills. But that’s okay because in the years that I’ve had her? She has become the sweetest snuggler I have. And she willingly gets on the milk stand and will let me love on her when I milk her, so I win.

Spike will tolerate the snuggles but he knows he can over power us very easily so we use caution around him.

Hack #5: Children

This is where that spastic child may actually help you out. Jaxson has no fear. Zero. Our rooster will beat the crap out of him and he comes back for more. It’s the same way with the goats. He doesn’t care if they want his love or not, they are getting it. He has managed to get these goats to realize they are friends, not food.

Children rarely have fear about something they perceive as cute and cuddly. It’s why your kid will randomly show up with a scorpion and while you are freaking out, they are asking to keep it….. Ask me how I know.

So let that child man-handle the goat, SAFELY! They will be the best of friends… maybe.

Accepting Defeat When You Try To Bond With Your Goats

If you have tried all of these things and nothing is working, chances are you have a Bella. That goat will probably never come around. We’ve had her for a few years now and we still have to work to get her. You will get there with your goat, but it’s going to take time.

When you have a “normal” goat that wants your affection, those five tips above usually works well. All of our other goats have come around within a month max. But sometimes it takes longer. Sometimes it’ll never happen. That’s okay. You have to keep trying and just try to manage the chaos.

Update For Those Interested

In the years that we have had Bella, she has given birth three times for us. And all those times she would cry for my attention. She only allows me and my oldest son to snuggle her newborn babies. She milks beautifully and has become an amazing goat for us. It does take time and effort.

I’ve read on so many Facebook pages of people saying get rid of the goat, freezer camp for the goat, etc and it breaks my heart. If we had listened to them, like a lot of new goat owners would, Bella wouldn’t be here. Neither would Ursula, Maverick or Goose.

For me, it’s no different than a difficult dog. The animal (regardless of species) is scared. But when you finally gain that trust? You have an animal that truly wants to spend time with you. Let’s you snuggle them and their babies. Brings you their babies. It’s truly amazing.

How do you get your goats to warm up to you?

Your Next Step

Bonding is the foundation — but routines are what keep that trust intact.

👉 How I Structure Daily Care for Livestock on a Working Homestead

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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How to Start A Homestead

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People across the country are concerned with the state of the grocery stores and supply chain. People who previously thought they could get anything they needed from a store, have quickly come to realize that is no longer the case. Shortages of basic necessities are becoming more common and leading many people to think about starting a homestead. But how to start a homestead?

Starting A Homestead

Most people don’t know where to start when it comes to farming, livestock, and other “farming” things. Well, welcome to the club. If you were not born into the lifestyle, and many of us weren’t, starting a homestead can be a daunting task. The good news is when you dive into the world of homesteading you will realize that it looks very different to everyone. Not mention the amount of resources available.

Before You Start a Homestead

“Starting a homestead” doesn’t mean doing everything at once.
It means choosing one system and building from there.

If you’re still figuring out what homesteading actually looks like in real life, start here:
👉 What Homesteading Really Means (and What It Doesn’t)

I talked in another posts that homesteading is a spirit, not a set of hard fast rules. I know homesteaders that live in a subdivision on less than an acre and others that have hundreds of acres. Some people love keeping pigs and some that don’t. We have goats, not everyone likes them. There are no rules to homesteading because homesteading is about independence, not acreage, livestock, and gardens.

Understanding Why You Want To Start A Homestead

I suggest really thinking about the why. Why do you want to homestead? What does homesteading look like to you? Can you do the things that you think a homestead is? What are your current capabilities and disabilities? Can you overcome them? What does the infrastructure of your homestead look like?

Our dream of homesteading started as a cabin in the woods fifteen years ago. As the world around us has changed, so has our dream. I wanted a garden for fresh produce, now I want a garden that will fully sustain us. Livestock? Nah, I’m good with my dogs and cats. Until we saw what the price of meat was doing. Your dreams can evolve and devolve and that’s just fine.

timing your vegetable garden (zone 8)

This Is Where Most People Get Stuck

Homesteading only works if you turn ideas into a plan — otherwise it becomes overwhelming fast.

This is the system I use to decide what to tackle first and what can wait:
👉 My Daily Homestead Schedule (What Actually Gets Done)

Let’s Start With Animals

Every new homesteader thinks they have to have pigs, cows, chickens, and other livestock when they start homesteading. We almost fell into this trap and thankfully cooler heads prevailed before we dove in head first. However, we have had our share of Uh-Oh’s and it has been a very expensive lesson to learn the hard way. We weren’t ready for goats and it has been a very steep learning curve. But worth every penny and heartbreak. So start small and grow from there.

Oakley and Bailey the goats
Oakley and Bailey

Chickens

Chickens are a great way to have that homestead feel, without all the extra work of a homestead. They are relatively easy creatures that don’t require around the clock work. Our chickens are set it and forget it. Once they were out of the brooder and into their coop, they had feed in the morning and night, and free range during the day. They also have access to plenty of water throughout the property. They don’t require a ton of upkeep.

Raising dual purpose meat chickens is also a great way to reduce your dependence on the grocery store without breaking the bank. You can have a steady stream of fresh eggs from hens and butcher the roos for meat. But there are some downsides to raising chickens, like escaping, predators, and getting into your garden.

Meat rabbits are another good animal to have on the homestead. Rhonda at The Farmer’s Lamp has a great post about the ins and outs of meat rabbits. Having meat rabbits allows you to close gaps in your food security and they don’t take up much space. Since it’s hard to automate their care, they are more work than chickens. But once you get used to what they need, it should only take about 10-20 minutes in the morning and evening. We will be adding them to the homestead this fall when its a little cooler. The biggest downside of rabbits is the cuteness factor. Many people will struggle to butcher them because they are really cute.

Brooding New Chicks

Goats

Goats are cool critters for the homestead. Unfortunately, I don’t recommend them for beginners. I say this as a beginner who had no clue what was happening and we have paid a hefty price for not knowing what I was doing. The value of learning about them mixed with the milk they give, possible meat, and income from breeding make them a good creature to have when starting a homestead.

If You’re Ready to Start, Start Small

The biggest mistake new homesteaders make is trying to do too much at once.

I start by setting a few realistic, seasonal goals and building systems around them:
👉 50 Realistic Homestead Goals to Start With

What About Gardens?

You do not need a acre garden when you are starting out. Yes, I am currently reminding myself of this right now as I am looking at my garden space, which is almost a half acre. You don’t need a greenhouses or other large, expensive purchases. Start small. Grow your tomatoes and peppers to make your salsa. Plant herbs and keep them alive. Make sure whatever you are planting you have a plan for. If you do not like cucumbers, do not plant 20 plants just because you think you should. Once you have a handle on what your family needs and what your land can produce, then you can start growing the size of your garden.

Learn how to preserve your garden so that you can enjoy your harvests well past summer. If you don’t know how to can, you can check out our canning page or go to YouTube, Pinterest, and Google for amazing resources. Also make sure that you have good storage for your jars of food. There is nothing worse than spending tons of time canning just to have your plastic shelves fail. If you don’t want to can and have some money to burn, invest in a freeze dryer.

Finances

Starting a homestead with no money is just not feasible. Whether you decide to make homesteading your fulltime job or simply a way to live more independently, you need to make sure your finances are in order before you start. Our first year homesteading cost us over $20,000 between buying fencing, animals, lumber, and vet bills. So make sure you have the ability to cover those expenses.

Setting up your infrastructure so that you can reduce costs over time is extremely important to your long term finances.

Your Next Step

If you’re serious about starting a homestead, the first thing you need isn’t land or animals — it’s a plan that fits your life.

👉 How I Structure My Homestead Day (So Things Actually Get Done)

Remember….

When everything is all said and done, you have to remember that starting a homestead comes down to your goals and your ability. You are only limited by your resourcefulness and imagination. There are no rules to what you have to do to be a homesteader. You don’t have to have or know everything to start a homestead. A dream, drive, and determination are all you need to start a homestead. Don’t get hung up on the details.

I hope this helps you start on the path to starting your own homestead. Leave us a comment below on your thoughts of starting a homestead.

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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How to Stop Animals From Pooping in Raised Beds (And Why You Should)

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Let’s talk about something gross—but necessary: animals pooping in raised beds. I don’t mean just one stray incident. I’m talking about that moment when you go out to water your lettuce and find that your raised bed has become the neighborhood litter box. And not just for cats. Oh no. On our farm, we’ve dealt with stray cats, raccoons, possums, and even skunks treating our beautifully mulched soil like a five-star toilet. And it’s not just annoying—it’s dangerous.

If you’re here because you’re tired of scraping cat poop out of your kale bed or finding suspicious mounds in your spinach patch, you’re not alone. It’s one of those garden problems nobody warns you about until you’re knee-deep in contaminated compost. This post will cover the health risks, what animals might be responsible, and—most importantly—how to stop it, with real solutions that actually work, including the one that’s saved our sanity: cayenne pepper.

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Why Animal Poop in the Garden Is a Big Problem

I get it. Animals do what animals do. But when your raised beds become their preferred bathroom, it’s not just unsanitary—it can be a legitimate health hazard.

1. Parasites and Pathogens
Feces from cats, raccoons, and opossums can carry a laundry list of diseases you do not want near your food. Toxoplasmosis, roundworms, E. coli, and salmonella are just a few of the pathogens lurking in animal waste. Cat feces in particular are notorious for spreading Toxoplasma gondii, a parasite that can cause severe complications, especially in pregnant women and those with weakened immune systems.

2. Soil Contamination
Even if you scoop it out, that poop doesn’t just sit there—it leaches into your soil. That beautiful compost you worked so hard to build can quickly become a breeding ground for bacteria. And once it’s in there, it’s hard to know whether your crops are safe to eat raw.

3. Damage to Plants
Beyond the contamination, digging behavior from animals using your raised beds can physically damage tender seedlings. Stray cats especially love to dig around freshly planted rows, treating your bed like a personal sandbox.

4. It’s Just Gross
Let’s be real. Nobody wants to reach into their kale and come back with more than they bargained for. It’s not a pleasant part of gardening, but it’s one that has to be dealt with.

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Who’s Pooping in Your Garden?

Before we dive into prevention, it helps to know your enemy.

  • Cats: Neighborhood strays or even your own outdoor cat will often use loose, fresh soil as a litter box. They especially love raised beds with nice fluffy soil or mulch.
  • Raccoons: Known for their communal “latrine” sites, raccoons will often return to the same spot over and over.
  • Opossums: Less frequent offenders but still possible. They’re mostly attracted to food scraps or compost, but they will go where they feel hidden and safe.
  • Dogs: Not as sneaky but certainly destructive. If your dog gets into your raised beds, you’ve got an entirely different cleanup job on your hands.
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Our #1 Solution: Cayenne Pepper

Let me just say—cayenne pepper works. On our farm, nothing has worked better at keeping the cats and raccoons out of the raised beds than a regular sprinkle of cayenne pepper powder or crushed red pepper flakes. They hate the smell, and even more than that, they really hate the burn when they try to dig or sniff around after you’ve applied it.

We’ve found the powder works better than flakes for a wide area application, but flakes last a bit longer in the rain. Here’s how to use it effectively:

How to Apply Cayenne Pepper to Raised Beds:

  1. Wait until your seedlings are up or apply before planting. Don’t sprinkle directly onto young, tender leaves.
  2. Lightly dust the surface of the soil, especially in corners and areas that have already been “used.”
  3. Reapply after watering or rain. It’s not permanent, but it builds a strong message over time: This is not your toilet.
  4. You can also mix it with a little water and dish soap for a DIY spray deterrent. Just make sure to avoid spraying it directly on edible leaves unless you rinse well before harvest.

PS: This also works to keep dogs from digging holes in your yard. It’s how we have trained our dogs for years.

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Other Effective Tips to Keep Animals Out of Raised Beds

1. Garden Netting or Mesh Covers
Floating row covers, bird netting, or even wire mesh laid across the bed can physically block animals from digging. You can install a light frame or use old tomato cages to support the netting and still allow sun and rain through.

2. Motion-Activated Sprinklers
Raccoons and cats hate being surprised. A motion-activated sprinkler set to go off when movement is detected can startle them enough to keep them away for good. You’ll have to keep a hose attached and water on at all times, so this may not be a great option.

3. Sharp Mulch or Chicken Wire
Cats in particular dislike walking on rough or pokey surfaces. Try a layer of pine cones, coarse wood chips, or even laying chicken wire just under the surface of your mulch. It makes digging uncomfortable, and they’ll quickly seek out easier terrain.

4. Predator Scents and Repellents
You can buy commercial repellents that mimic the smell of predators like fox or coyote. Some gardeners swear by them. Just check that they’re safe to use around edible plants and follow the instructions closely.

5. Planting Deterrents
Strong-smelling herbs like rosemary, lavender, and lemongrass can sometimes help deter cats and small animals from hanging around. Scatter them around the edges of your beds for a bonus bit of beauty and scent.

6. Secure Your Compost
Many critters are drawn to open compost bins full of food scraps. Make sure your compost pile is contained and covered, especially if you’re in an area with active raccoons or possums. You don’t want your garden to be their midnight buffet.

7. Garden Fencing (Even Mini Versions)
A simple 2-foot fence around your raised beds can do a lot to keep small animals out. It won’t stop raccoons completely (those bandits are crafty), but it does add a layer of inconvenience that can make your garden less appealing.

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What to Do If You Suspect Contamination

If you discover fresh animal feces in your raised bed, don’t panic—but don’t ignore it either.

Here’s what to do:

  1. Remove all visible feces carefully, using a trowel and gloves.
  2. Discard any vegetables that may have come into direct contact with waste.
  3. If the poop was in a planting area, consider removing the top few inches of soil and replacing it.
  4. Avoid planting root vegetables (like carrots or radishes) in that spot for the rest of the season.
  5. Wait at least 120 days before planting anything you plan to eat raw in that area—this aligns with USDA guidance for raw manure contamination.

Before we get too far into this post, I wanted to give a suggestion about keeping a garden journal. A digital garden journal is a fantastic way to keep track of past, present and future gardens. Our Digital Garden Journal is a great way to keep up with everything without getting too overwhelmed.

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Prevention Is Easier Than Clean-Up

Once an animal picks a favorite potty spot, they will come back. Your best bet is to deter them immediately and consistently. Even if the poop problem seems small now, it can become a serious health issue later. And let’s face it—it ruins the joy of gardening when your harvest bed becomes a hazard zone.

Cayenne pepper is an easy, affordable place to start, and for us, it’s been a game changer. But combine it with physical barriers or deterrents, and you’ll drastically reduce the chances of repeat offenses.

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Final Thoughts: Reclaim Your Raised Beds

If you’ve ever found yourself cursing at a neighborhood cat or battling with a masked raccoon under moonlight, know this: you’re not alone. The struggle is real, and it’s not your fault. Raised beds are inviting. They’re warm, dry, and easy to dig in. To an animal, they might as well have a sign that says “Nature’s Bathroom—Open 24/7.”

But with the right mix of deterrents, persistence, and a dash of cayenne, you can reclaim your garden space. Keep your beds clean, your soil safe, and your harvests healthy—because you deserve to garden without fear of stepping in something unpleasant.

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How to Sell Goat Meat: Best Markets and Pricing Strategies

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If you’re raising goats and want to turn your herd into a sustainable income stream, learning how to sell goat meat effectively is essential. Whether you raise Boer, Kiko, Spanish, or TexMaster goats, the key to profitability lies in choosing the right markets and setting the right prices. This guide breaks down the most important selling goat meat tips, from market types to pricing strategies that actually work.

Why Goat Meat Is in High Demand

Goat meat—also known as chevon or cabrito—is the most consumed red meat globally. Its lean profile, unique flavor, and adaptability to cultural cuisines make it a top choice for many communities. In the U.S., demand continues to rise due to increased immigrant populations and growing interest in grass-fed, sustainable meat sources. This makes it a prime time to get into the goat meat business—especially if you’re raising goats on pasture with humane practices and clean feed. But to profit, you need to understand where and how to sell.

1. Understand Your Market First

Before diving into pricing, you need to determine who your ideal customer is. Are they local families? Restaurants? Ethnic grocery stores? Butchers? Or are you selling directly off the farm?

Here are a few potential customer segments for goat meat:

  • Ethnic communities (e.g., Hispanic, Middle Eastern, African, Caribbean, Indian)
  • Farm-to-table restaurants
  • Butcher shops and halal meat markets
  • Health-conscious consumers
  • Homesteaders or rural families looking to buy in bulk

Pro tip: Visit local markets, speak with potential buyers, and explore online homesteading and farming groups to discover local demand. Use this research to guide your sales strategy.

2. Choose the Right Selling Channels

Different selling methods work better depending on your location, meat processing setup, and target customers. Below are the top ways to sell goat meat effectively.

A. Direct-to-Consumer Sales

Selling directly from your farm or through a website cuts out the middleman and maximizes profit.

Benefits:

  • Full control of pricing
  • Build customer loyalty
  • Easier to upsell cuts or add-on products

Selling tips:

  • Set up a simple farm stand or pickup point
  • Create a basic website or Shopify store
  • Offer bulk options (whole, half, or quarter goat)

B. Farmers Markets

If you already sell eggs, veggies, or goat milk, adding packaged meat can boost your revenue per customer.

What to know:

  • You’ll need proper licensing, cold storage, and a mobile freezer
  • Offer recipe cards and samples if local laws allow
  • Display USDA or state inspection information clearly

C. Ethnic Grocery Stores and Restaurants

Restaurants and ethnic grocers often buy goat meat in bulk or on a recurring basis. This creates consistent income, but margins are tighter.

Tips for success:

  • Contact chefs or buyers with a clear price list
  • Offer samples or a test order
  • Be flexible with delivery or pickup schedules

D. Livestock Auctions (Live Sales)

Some producers sell goats live at auction instead of processing them. While it’s easier, you lose out on meat markup.

This is not ideal both for the goat’s sake as well as your bottom line. This would be my very last option… I would rather keep the goat for my own freezers.

3. Know Your Processing Options

One of the most important selling goat meat tips is understanding how processing affects your legality, pricing, and market access.

A. USDA-Inspected Facilities

If you want to sell by the cut (e.g., leg, shoulder, ground goat), your meat must be processed at a USDA-inspected facility.

Pros:

  • Can sell meat retail
  • Ideal for stores, restaurants, and direct-to-consumer

Cons:

  • Limited availability in some areas
  • Higher processing costs

B. State-Inspected Facilities (If Your State Allows)

Some states allow in-state meat sales under state inspection. Check your state’s department of agriculture for details.

C. Custom Exempt (For Personal Use or Farm Gate Sales)

If you’re selling whole animals and letting the buyer process it themselves or through a custom-exempt facility, you’re not selling “meat”—you’re selling a live animal. This is legally simpler in many areas.

Popular with:

  • Homesteaders
  • Families who want to fill their freezer

Example Script:
“We sell our goats live, and once purchased, you’re welcome to take them to the custom processor of your choice. We can recommend one nearby.”

Be careful with doing this because there are a lot of people who will try and slaughter the animal on your property before leaving. Be sure to explain clearly, and if necessary in their language, that this is not okay.

4. Set Your Pricing: What to Charge for Goat Meat

Now let’s talk numbers. Pricing your goat meat depends on your costs, your market, and your sales channel. Here are the most effective ways to price it:

A. Price Per Pound Hanging Weight

This is the most common method for bulk goat meat sales.

Example:

  • Goat live weight: 80 lbs
  • Hanging weight (after slaughter): 40 lbs
  • Price per pound: $7
  • Total sale: $280

Key tip: Always clarify if your pricing is based on live weight, hanging weight, or packaged weight. Transparency builds trust.

B. Price Per Cut (Retail)

Retail cuts are the most profitable but require USDA processing and attractive packaging.

Example prices:

  • Ground goat: $10–$14/lb
  • Shoulder roast: $12–$15/lb
  • Rack or chops: $16–$20/lb
  • Organ meats (liver, heart, kidney): $5–$8/lb

Offer bundled boxes like:

  • Griller’s Box (chops, ground, ribs)
  • Family Box (shoulder, ground, stew meat)

C. Whole or Half Goat Sales

This is popular for farm pickup or holiday demand (e.g., Eid, Easter, or family feasts). Set a flat rate or use per-pound pricing.

Example:

  • Whole goat: $250–$400 depending on breed and weight
  • Half goat: $125–$200

5. Seasonal Demand: Timing Your Sales for Max Profit

Certain times of year have much higher demand for goat meat. Here are peak times to plan around:

Holiday/Event – Communities – Goat Type

  • Eid al-Adha – Muslim – Whole bucks
  • Easter – Christian/Greek – Young kids
  • Christmas/New Year – Hispanic/Caribbean – Various
  • Ramadan – Muslim – Cuts or whole

Plan your breeding schedule so kids are at ideal weights around these peak times. For example, Eid demand often focuses on bucks around 6–9 months old and 60–100 lbs.

6. Add Value with Branding and Storytelling

If you want to charge premium prices, build a brand your customers can trust. This works especially well if you’re using regenerative practices, rotating pasture, or raising rare breeds.

Ideas to showcase your value:

  • Create labels with breed info, how they were raised, and your farm name
  • Share behind-the-scenes videos on Instagram and Pinterest
  • Offer cooking guides or storage tips with every order
  • Use the keyword “grass-fed,” “pasture-raised,” and “locally raised” in your marketing copy

Pinterest tip: Post infographics showing “How to Butcher a Goat,” “Goat Meat Nutrition,” or “Cuts of Goat Meat.” These drive traffic and educate your audience. However, this can often insight rude, mean or nasty responses from those that aren’t educated on the practice of raising animals for slaughter.

7. Legal Considerations for Selling Goat Meat

This is one of the most crucial selling goat meat tips—don’t skip the legal stuff.

Check:

  • Your state’s meat sales regulations
  • Licensing required for retail or farmers markets
  • Processing facility inspections and labeling guidelines
  • Zoning laws for farm sales or events

Start by contacting your State Department of Agriculture, USDA Food Safety Inspection Service, and local extension office. Each state varies.

8. Track Your Costs and Profits

Profitable goat meat sales don’t just depend on pricing—they depend on knowing your numbers.

Track:

  • Feed and hay costs per animal
  • Breeding expenses
  • Processing and transport costs
  • Sales income per goat (live vs. processed)

Use a profit-first model to allocate income. An example of profit-first would be like below:

  • 50% profit
  • 30% expenses
  • 10% taxes
  • 10% reinvestment

Knowing your true profit margin helps you scale smart.

Final Thoughts: Sell Smart, Not Just Fast

Selling goat meat is more than just raising animals—it’s about building systems, pricing smart, and understanding your market. Whether you’re just starting with a handful of does or running a full-time meat operation, these selling goat meat tips can help you boost your revenue, build loyal customers, and create a business that supports your homestead goals.

Ready to start selling goat meat?

Here’s a quick checklist:

  • ✅ Define your market
  • ✅ Choose your selling channel
  • ✅ Find a legal processor
  • ✅ Price your products clearly
  • ✅ Build a brand and tell your story
  • ✅ Track costs and profits

You’ve got this. With careful planning and consistent marketing, your goats can feed your community—and your bank account.

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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Raising Goats for Profit: How to Make Money from Meat and Dairy

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Whether you’re a homesteader, hobby farmer, or aspiring agricultural entrepreneur, profitable goat farming is a realistic and achievable goal when approached with the right strategy. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about raising goats for profit—focusing on both meat and dairy production. From choosing the right breeds to maximizing your income streams, we’re diving into the details that will help you build a thriving goat business.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Why Goats Are a Smart Investment

Goats are one of the most versatile livestock options for small farms. They require less space and feed than cattle, have strong market demand, and offer multiple income sources—milk, meat, manure, breeding stock, and even agritourism.

Here’s why profitable goat farming is on the rise:

  • Low Startup Costs: Compared to other livestock, goats are relatively inexpensive to purchase and maintain.
  • High Reproduction Rates: Most goat breeds can produce twins or triplets yearly, increasing your herd quickly.
  • Diverse Market Opportunities: You can sell meat, milk, cheese, soap, breeding stock, or even rent goats out for land clearing.

Step 1: Choose Your Focus — Meat or Dairy Goats?

Before you jump into raising goats for profit, it’s essential to decide your primary focus. Yes, you can do both, but if you are just starting out, it would be much easier to figure out where you want to focus your attention.

Meat Goat Farming

Meat goats are hardy, grow quickly, and are in high demand—especially around holidays in ethnic markets. Popular breeds include:

  • Boer: The most common meat goat breed, known for fast growth and muscle mass.
  • Kiko: Hardy and parasite-resistant, great for low-maintenance operations.
  • TexMaster: A crossbreed of Boer and Myotonic, prized for meat quality and ease of management.

Meat goats are typically sold by live weight or hanging weight, with pricing often ranging from $5–$10 per pound depending on your market.

Dairy Goat Farming

If you’re more interested in daily hands-on care and want to create value-added products like cheese and soap, dairy goats are the way to go. Top breeds include:

  • Nubian: High butterfat content, ideal for cheese and rich milk.
  • Saanen: High milk volume, friendly temperament.
  • Alpine: Balanced milk production and strong genetics.

Dairy operations can sell raw milk (check local laws), cheese, yogurt, and even body care products like goat milk soap and lotion.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Step 2: Understand the Costs of Goat Farming

To make your farm truly profitable, you need to track both startup and ongoing costs. Here’s a quick breakdown:

Startup Costs:

  • Goat shelter or barn: $500–$5,000
  • Fencing (goats are escape artists!): $2–$5 per foot. This can increase with the additions of hot wire and additional t-posts to secure your fencing better.
  • Water system and feeders: $200–$800
  • Breeding stock: $150–$500 per goat (more for registered goats)
  • Milking or processing equipment (for dairy): $1,000–$5,000

Ongoing Costs:

  • Feed and hay: $10–$30 per goat per month
  • Veterinary care: $10–$20 per goat monthly
  • Mineral supplements: $20/month for small herds
  • Marketing and packaging (dairy products): Variable

Use a simple spreadsheet, like or Schedule F, or farm management software to track all expenses. Knowing your break-even point is key to profitable goat farming.

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Step 3: Build a Solid Infrastructure

Success in goat farming starts with proper infrastructure:

Housing

Goats need shelter from wind, rain, and predators. Simple sheds with good ventilation and dry bedding will do for most climates. Plan for at least 15–20 square feet per goat inside and 200–250 square feet of outdoor space.

Fencing

Invest in strong fencing like woven wire or electric netting. Goats are curious and agile—they will test your boundaries!

Feeding & Watering

A balanced diet includes:

  • Quality hay
  • Grain (in moderation)
  • Minerals (always available)
  • Fresh water

Dairy goats also benefit from high-protein supplements during lactation.

Step 4: Set Up Your Breeding Program

A well-managed breeding program is a core component of profitable goat farming.

  • Breeding Season: Typically fall, with kids born in spring.
  • Gestation Period: About 150 days.
  • Kidding Rate: 2–3 kids per doe is common with good nutrition.

Tips for profitable breeding:

  • Keep detailed records of breeding dates and bloodlines.
  • Cull unproductive or unhealthy animals.

Sell kids at 8–12 weeks for meat or raise doelings as future milkers. Processing the kids is the hardest part of meat goat farming, so be prepared.

If you are a farmer/ homesteader and looking for a way to track your income and expenses, I highly recommend our Schedule F Tracker! We have been using it for years and it is the easiest, fastest and best way that we have found to keep track of the money spent on the homestead.

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Step 5: Know Your Market

Understanding your target market is crucial for maximizing profits. Here are key goat product income streams:

Selling Goat Meat

Target:

  • Local ethnic communities
  • Butcher shops
  • Farmers markets
  • Online meat shares

Offer whole goat sales, cut-and-wrapped meat, or CSA-style shares. Use social media and your website to take pre-orders.

Selling Goat Milk & Dairy Products

Raw milk laws vary by state—check your local regulations. You can sell:

  • Bottled milk
  • Cheese (chevre, feta, aged varieties)
  • Yogurt
  • Butter
  • Goat milk soap and lotion

Add value by offering farm tours, classes, or subscription boxes.

Selling Breeding Stock

As your herd improves, you can sell:

  • Registered doelings and bucks
  • Starter herds to new farmers
  • Wethers as pets or brush goats

Document pedigrees, health records, and milk/meat performance to increase value. To give you an idea of how this looks, a starter herd of TexMaster goats (kids and yearlings) will cost you about $2400 depending on your local area. And they are not breed-able for about another year or so. An adult doe will run you about $1,000.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Step 6: Maximize Income Streams

Diversify your farm income to reduce risk and grow your revenue. Here are bonus ways to make money with goats:

  • Goat Yoga Classes
  • Brush Clearing Services
  • Manure for Gardeners
  • Homestead Workshops
  • YouTube Channel or Blog
  • Etsy Shop for Goat-Based Products

The more ways you leverage your goats, the more profitable goat farming becomes.

Step 7: Use Smart Marketing to Stand Out

Marketing is where many farms struggle—but it doesn’t have to be hard.

Build a Farm Website

Include:

  • Your story
  • Products & services
  • Contact info
  • Farm blog (for SEO)
  • Online store or order form

Use Pinterest for SEO & Sales

Pinterest is powerful for promoting:

  • Goat milk soap tutorials
  • Cheese recipes
  • Homesteading tips
  • Farm lifestyle content

Create vertical pins (1000×1500 px), use text overlays, and include keywords like “profitable goat farming,” “goat milk soap,” or “how to start a goat farm.”

If you are a farmer/ homesteader and looking for a way to track your income and expenses, I highly recommend our Schedule F Tracker! We have been using it for years and it is the easiest, fastest and best way that we have found to keep track of the money spent on the homestead.

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Grow Your Social Media

Post consistently on:

  • Instagram (behind-the-scenes + stories)
  • Facebook (farm updates + customer interaction)
  • YouTube or TikTok (goat care, kidding season, milking tutorials)

Engage your audience and build community. People love following real farmers.

Step 8: Stay Compliant and Legal

To run a legitimate and profitable operation, get familiar with local regulations. Below are just a few licensing and regulations to consider. I would also look into getting insurance if you are going to have farm tours, sell food products, etc. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

  • Business License
  • Raw Milk Sales Permits
  • Animal Welfare Standards
  • Meat Processing Laws
  • Zoning & Land Use

It’s worth consulting your county extension office or a farm attorney for guidance. Don’t skip this step—it protects your farm and future.

Step 9: Track, Measure & Improve

The best farmers treat their operation like a business. Monitor these metrics:

  • Feed-to-meat/milk conversion ratios
  • Breeding success rates
  • Average sale price per product
  • Customer acquisition cost
  • Monthly profit/loss

Review your numbers monthly and look for ways to improve efficiency. That’s how you turn a hobby into profitable goat farming.

Our herd health bundle helps you keep track of your herd’s health. Includes the goat assessment, herd check sheets AND Herd Health Tracker!

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Final Thoughts: Is Goat Farming Really Profitable?

Absolutely—if you plan well, start small, and grow intentionally.

Profitable goat farming isn’t a get-rich-quick scheme, but with hard work and smart decisions, you can turn your goats into a dependable income source that fits your lifestyle and values.

Whether you’re raising meat goats for local markets or crafting artisan cheese from your backyard herd, there’s never been a better time to start.

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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If you like this post, feel free to share it and follow us below on our social media accounts!

How To Raise Goat Bottle Babies

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If you are purchasing a bottle baby, have a momma who rejected a kid, or are planning to sell a bottle baby, there are some things you should know and be prepared for. Bottle babies are not for the faint of heart, there is a lot of involvement with them. You become their momma and in turn you end up with a creature that is so attached to you, it’s almost like your own kid. But to raise goat bottle babies, there are a few things you should know.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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First, let me preface this with: I am not a vet. I am simply a goat farmer that has done a ton of research and “experimented” on my herd. There has been a lot of trial and error…. and a lot of error. This information is from my vet and from my experience, as well as the experience of other goat farmers. I encourage you to speak with a vet or find a goat mentor local to you.

How To Raise Goat Bottle Babies

There are a lot of reasons that you may find yourself with a bottle baby. Some are fine, others are sad or scary. Regardless, here are somethings you should be aware of. If you bought bottle babies from a reputable breeder, there should be nothing “wrong” with them. This should be the easiest bottle baby you have. But unfortunately, there are a fair amount of situations where you may end up with a bottle baby that are not ideal.

Momma Rejected Or Died

While it’s a very sad situation, when momma doesn’t want to or can’t take care of her babies, you may have to pull the baby from her. Or on the other side of the spectrum momma has died and you now have babies to raise.

It’s Just Too Cold Outside

Sometimes, you have to make the decision to bottle a baby based on weather. Which is weird, I know. This late winter/ early spring has been extremely rainy. We are having weeks of rain with a day or two of sun. That means that our barn and pastures are a muddy mess. Not a great environment to raise babies in.

We are also in this weird weather pattern of cool/cold nights and 75* days. Because of that, we had to bring Bailey inside after she kidded triplets, because it was just so dang cold and wet. We seriously considered raising one of her kids inside just to give her some relief and to ensure that she could care for the other two better.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

Momma Had Too Many

Bailey gave us triplets this last season. If this had happened to almost any other goat, we probably would have been okay. But Bailey has tiny udders and doesn’t produce a ton of milk. We had to supplement with milk we had put up. If your doe birthed quads, quints, or sextuplets? Be ready to bottle raise some of them.

raise goat bottle babies

A First Time Freshener

Another reason you may have to raise goat bottle babies is because momma is a first time freshener and doesn’t have a clue what she is doing. Jade is struggling a little bit with her kids because she is really unsure how to handle them. She’s away from her sister for the first time and these things are smashing their face into her udders for milk. We had to catch/pull and then clean the babies because she was totally unprepared. This is all totally fine and normal, but you do need to be prepared.

We ended up having to pull Jade’s kids because she just wouldn’t take care of them. It was unfortunate, but we ended up selling one and keeping the other.

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How To Raise Goat Bottle Babies

Now to the meat and potatoes of this post. Raising goat bottle babies is probably no different than sheep and maybe cows. But I don’t have those creatures so I can really only speak about goats.

Raise goat Bottle Babies

Dam Raised or True Bottle Baby

The first thing you have to decide is whether you are going to pull the baby from momma completely or supplement feedings. Our goal is to keep kids with mommas for as long as possible. With Bailey, we “let” her be momma and we just supplemented. We started with 3x a day feedings and then dropped to one “big” bottle at night. If we had taken one of her babies to raise inside, it would have been a true bottle baby.

Bottles

There are some people that think the red teat nipple is the way to go. Others think a cheap baby bottle will work. Personally, I think fed is best, so do what you’ve got to do to get that baby to eat. We have the red teat nipples and our goats just don’t like them. We use cheap baby bottles and they work fantastic. If you are purchasing a bottle baby from a breeder, that breeder should be able to tell you exactly what bottle they are using and you can purchase that.

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Replacer vs Whole Cows Milk

Whole cows milk is the replacement of choice for goat kids. Period. Actually, the replacement of choice would be goats milk. But if you can’t get that, cows milk is the best. There is a ton of research out there on the milk replacers vs whole cows milk but at the end of the day, cows milk is easier for your goat kid to digest. Whole cow milk is an animal milk but milk replacer is usually a bunch of different additives that may be too hard for your kid to digest and use.

But again, fed is best. So whatever you can afford and your kid will eat, is the way to go here.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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How Much To Feed

There is a TON of information about how much to feed your bottle baby and how often. But first you have to start with a weight. The ratio is about 1#= 2.5oz. So if your goat kid weighs about 5# you would feed approximately 12.5oz per day.

Also the age of your kid factors into how many times per day to feed it. A kid that is just born and is 3# would get 7.5oz of colostrum over 12 bottles.

Week 1: 6 Bottles

Week 2- 4: 4 Bottles

Week 5-8: 3 Bottles

Week 9-10: 2 Bottles

Week 11-12: 1 Bottle (start weaning)

****Weaning would be giving 1 bottle per day with less and less milk. I usually start reducing the bottles by 3oz and see how the kid does****

For example: Your goat kid is 3 weeks old and weighs 8# you would feed approximately 20oz over 4 bottles. Each bottle would contain 5oz.

Also, you should be weighing your kids at least once a week. This not only ensures that they are gaining weight but also making sure that you are adjusting your feeding amount as appropriate.

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Over Feeding vs Underfeeding

Goat kids will absolutely over eat if you let them. Momma’s have this instinct that tells them when the kid is done eating. But if you are momma, you may think that your kiddo is starving. They’re not. Trust me. If you are using the formula above and they are gaining weight steadily, they are just fine.

The biggest thing to watch for after a feeding is done, their belly should feel full-ish. It shouldn’t feel hard and it shouldn’t be sunken in. My suggestion is this: feed like the formula says for the first couple of days and feel their stomach. If it’s hard or rounded? Back off the milk just an ounce or so. If it’s sunken or they aren’t gaining weight? Up it an ounce or so.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

Temperatures: Milk and Kid

When it comes to goats of all ages, temperature is probably the most important thing you can master. If your goat is too cold or too hot, bad things can happen. Kids are no different and in fact it’s probably more important. When kids get too cold, they cannot digest the milk. If they can’t digest the milk? It will rot in their stomach. So make sure you are checking their temps before feeding. Before feeding, their temps should be between 101-103. If they are not warm enough, bring them inside to get warm and then feed them when they are at least 101*.

When it comes to milk, the temperature should be 103*. This is about the temperature that momma’s milk would be. Too cold and the kid could become hypothermic (cold). Too hot and the kid could scald their mouths. We check on the inside of our wrists, if it’s warm to hot (not burning) it’s the right temp. If it burns us? It will burn them.

cropped-3.jpg

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Tips and Hacks To Raise Goat Bottle Babies

Transitioning

If you are getting your bottle baby from a breeder, the kid should already be on either milk replacer or whole cow milk. If they aren’t, that breeder should send goat milk home with you to transition. When I sell our bottle babies, we send goat milk with them to start transitioning if we haven’t already transitioned them to whole cows milk. When we sold Bailey’s triplets, we were not anticipating selling them that quickly. But we sent a gallon of goat milk with the buyer. Then we dropped off another gallon and a half gallon because we wanted to make sure the transition was as smooth as possible.

Preparing For A Bottle Baby…. Just In Case

After our does kid, and depending on how many she gave us, we bring a pint mason jar with us every time we go outside. When we get singles, we milk out the colostrum of ONE teat over the next 24hrs. We do this so we have back up colostrum and a couple of times it has saved our babies. If we have twins or trips? We still bring out that jar and a bottle just in case one of the babies isn’t nursing great. Sometimes we do it at night to ensure that the kids go to bed with a full belly. But being prepared is key.

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Much like raising human children, raising bottle babies flies by. Next thing you know, they are jumping off the roof of your car… the goat kid not the human one. Unless you have a Jaxson, then it may be the house and not the car. Regardless, it is such a cool experience.

That kid will become a pocket pet for you and watching them get so excited to see you is pretty cool too. Not to mention when you are feeding them and that little tail is going a million miles a minute? Ridiculously cute. And while it’s a TON of work, it’s so worth it.

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Is Homesteading Hard

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I should probably wait to write this, maybe when I’m not quite so raw. But the cold hard reality is that homesteading is hard. Out of all the things I have done in my life, I think homesteading is the hardest. I have had multiple miscarriages. Sent my husband off to war twice and raise two babies while he was gone. I have stood over bleeding and mangled bodies and said, “I’ve got you.” I’ve had a mom hand me her infant and say, “Save her.” Is homesteading hard? It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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*****Be sure to read till the end*****

Why Is Homesteading Hard?

The constant life and death decisions will wear you down. The constant checking on feed, hay, and medication levels. Hauling sick animals into the house or into the vet. Checking finances to make sure you can cover the feed, vet or light bill. Worrying about the garden producing not only your food but your animals. Prepping firewood and praying you’ve got enough. Constant research to find another way to possibly save money or a life. Frustration when a product doesn’t work. It’s enough to drive you insane. Homesteading is hard.

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✅ Profit Calculator – Track earnings
✅ Hay Calculator – Plan livestock feed
✅ Garden Journal – Digital & printable
✅ Herd Health Tracker – Monitor animal care
✅ Simple Budget – Manage finances
✅ Backyard Homestead eBook – Essential tips

$99 value – now just $47! Start your homesteading journey today!

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Life and Death Decisions

When you live a “normal” life, maybe you really only worry about your dogs or cats, maybe an “exotic”. But when you homestead (even small scale), you have to be constantly aware of your house pets and livestock, their safety and wellbeing, their health, laboring or egg/ hatching rates and so much more. You have to worry about predators.

You order chicks and realize that one just isn’t doing well, and you have to make the decision to cull. A duck breaks a leg? Is it worth the pain they will go through to see if you can set it, splint it and keep them confined? Actively warming a goat kid till the wee hours of the morning. Only to have them die a couple days later, anyways.

If you are new to heating with firewood and are looking to master the finer points of it. We’ve got a great eBook that goes in depth of what tools you should consider, how and where to stack, how to build a fire and so much more!

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Running Out Of Feed

Sometimes you run out of feed, and can’t get more. The supply chain shortages were a thing and usually the small farmer is who suffers. You’ve got to get creative with how you are going to feed your chickens, ducks, pigs and goats with no access to feed. Sometimes it’s taking 5gal buckets to work and asking coworkers to fill it with their food scraps, just to feed your pigs or chickens. Or begging neighbors for a couple bales of hay.

The reality of caring for so many animals on the homestead is overwhelming sometimes.

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Are you looking for garden journal prompts, but aren’t interested in a weekly email? Check out our 365 Garden Journal Prompts! This is an amazing, all in one, yearly product that you only pay for once.

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Sick Animals

Sometimes, your living room turns into an infirmary. Sometimes, your really nice SUV turns into a litter box because you’ve got to haul the pigs to the vet. Then despite all of your very best efforts, your animal dies anyways.

It’s pulling goats because momma is too tired to push, only to realize the kid is stuck and you can’t get it out. Praying to forces you don’t even believe in to save this baby.

It’s a cemetery on your property because you just couldn’t save them.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Financial Impact

Sometimes life and death decisions are made because of finances and that feels worse. When you have to cull an animal, especially a favorite, because you don’t have the money for medicine or a vet visit. Or it’s feeding the pigs out of your pantry or fridge because you don’t have anything else.

Other times, it’s using your emergency fund to cover hay because you ran out.

Working Your Gardens

Whether you are praying for rain, or praying for rain to stop, your life revolves around your gardens in spring and summer. Since you’ve decided to grow as much fodder for your livestock as possible, you are stressing over it’s growth. You are simply hoping to reduce the strain on your wallet.

You are constantly checking for pests and weeds. Thinking about next years garden and what you will do differently. Pouring over notes, blog posts, and more trying to get a leg up.

Before we get too far into this post, I wanted to give a suggestion about keeping a garden journal. A digital garden journal is a fantastic way to keep track of past, present and future gardens. Our Digital Garden Journal is a great way to keep up with everything without getting too overwhelmed.

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Firewood

When you make the decision to heat solely with your wood stove, you spend hours, days and weeks building that firewood stack. One cord down, seven more to go. Only to realize mid winter, seven wasn’t enough either. So you’re back out there, cutting down trees or finding your stacks you had put back for the next year.

It’s hauling huge rounds of wood up hills. It’s the pure manual labor that feels back breaking, but isn’t.

If you are new to heating with firewood and are looking to master the finer points of it. We’ve got a great eBook that goes in depth of what tools you should consider, how and where to stack, how to build a fire and so much more!

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Is Homesteading Hard?

Yes, but it is worth it. Every single time and every single way, it is worth it. The good outweighs the bad, every single time.

The pure joy of harvesting peppers, dehydrating them, grinding them, and then using them in your dinner? It’s a feeling of pure satisfaction.

Seeing that firewood stack go from empty at the beginning of spring and full at the end of summer? Knowing that you are going to be warm and snuggly? It’s hard to describe the feeling of accomplishment.

It’s cleaning eggs, putting them in a jar to waterglass, and putting them on shelves in your basement, knowing you will have eggs this winter.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

Watching your garden bloom and grow. Eating beans fresh from the garden, while harvesting peppers and tomatoes. Canning your tomatoes, knowing that when you are buttoning up everything for the winter, you have succeeded in your goal of providing for your family and livestock.

It’s watching that goat kid thrive after a traumatic birth. Knowing that you would do it again and again, just to see that baby come out alive and hear those first cries. And crying when you bury her sisters and listening to that momma goat cry for her other babies.

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Are you looking for garden journal prompts, but aren’t interested in a weekly email? Check out our 365 Garden Journal Prompts! This is an amazing, all in one, yearly product that you only pay for once.

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It’s waking up before the sun breaks the horizon to milk the goats. Softly talking to your most skittish goat and thanking her for her milk. Watching the sunrise with her as her kid jumps and plays with the other kids. Listening for her call her kid and the kid call back.

Planning a bigger, better garden because you learned from your mistakes last year or the year before.

Is homesteading hard? Yes, but you should absolutely do it. There is no better feeling in the world than watching all of your hard work pay off. No amount of money or promotions, or follows, likes and shares compares to feeling of being self reliant, self sufficient, and earning through blood, sweat and tears the bounty.

Because when you homestead, it’s real. And in a world full of slight of hand, disinformation, division, and mistrust, your homestead is a living breathing thing that YOU created.

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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If you like this post, feel free to share it and follow us below on our social media accounts!

Has Free Ranging The Goats Worked?

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We officially started free ranging our goats on August 1, 2022. This was an experiment and, I would say that THIS year, it has gone pretty well. We have had some hiccups in the matrix, but nothing that was so bad that I wouldn’t free range them again. But I wanted to discuss the how’s, why’s and maybe do this next year if you are thinking about free ranging goats on your homestead.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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The Real Side Of Free Ranging Goats

There are a lot of good things that have come out of free ranging the goats on our 8.5 acres. But there has also been some bad. And while the good definitely out weigh the bad for us, it may not be the case on your homestead.

Tractor Supply

Our first full year goating, we spent thousands of dollars on hay, alfalfa and grain for the goats. We battled high parasite loads and constant diarrhea. The amount of money we wasted on pasture seed is incredible. But when we started allowing them to free range there were some fantastic results.

Finances

I mentioned above that we have spent thousands of dollars on hay and such. But that’s only a part of it. Not only have we spent money on food, we have also spent a lot on vet bills, fencing, and feed troughs. While that is definitely part of raising any livestock, this has been a lot higher than we want it to be.

Free ranging the goats allows them to do what goats do best, search for their food. It keeps them from eating food off the ground and picking up more parasites. By eating the browse, they are helping us not have to rent bush hogs and other equipment to clear these areas. Which was their original purpose according to Jared.

Body Condition

Champ, who has never had a FAMACHA better than a 3, is now at a 1 and has stayed there. Her body condition, that we could NEVER get better than a 2, is now a 4-4.5.

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They have an established herd queen now (Champ) who is actually looking after her girls. By not having them fenced in, we are allowing their natural instincts to kick in and they are actually looking out for each other. This really helps because when we need to put hands on them, we just have to find Champ.

We also noticed that the babies were better able to fight off various infections, parasites, etc, simply because they were allowed to be free. This is in essence the process of rotational grazing…. just without fencing.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

Predator Control

Yard clean up is virtually non existent. We were trying to figure out how to battle the weeds, brambles, and briars when we first moved in. Now? The goats move through the property and eat all of it down. How does this help with predator control? Well, by having the goats free range, they have eaten down a lot of the areas that the predators would live in. And when we see them running back to the house or their barn, we know somethings up and we start looking.

We now have a clear line of sight to the various areas of the property because they have come through and eaten everything.

We do worry about the goats and the babies coming across a fox or coyote den, we only free range them during the day when someone is home. This minimizes the risks. Since we really only free range between spring, summer and fall, we are almost always outside anyways.

Parasite Control

Parasites are pretty much cured…. Well, kinda. It is totally normal, and completely fine for your livestock to have worms. In fact, we want them to have some worms because it aids in digestion and other good things for the goats. But you should never have an uncontrolled parasite problem. When you don’t utilize pasture rotation, you will have parasite blooms and your livestock will suffer.

Since we refuse to deworm monthly, we have to make sure that we are on our game with pasture rotation. Deworming every month as a preventative causes resistance and they aren’t making new dewormers.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

Cons?

Well, there is poop everywhere. While it doesn’t stink, it is a pain when you step in it and don’t realize it.

They’ve eaten the house plants on my front porch. ALL OF THEM.

They broke a board on the back deck and think the flight of stairs is a great place to jump from.

They have eaten ALL of my fruit trees.

Bucks chase does, so they have to stay penned up.

They will break into your gardens. The good news is that they will find the weak spot for you to fix. Just ask them.

As you can see, there aren’t many deal breaker cons for me. The trees sucked and I will be fencing in the area so that the goats won’t eat them next time. The poop is easily swept up too. Overall, we will free range them again and again. They are much healthier and happier.

Free Ranging Goats: Update 2023

As we move into fall this year, I wanted to give you guys some latest updates on how free ranging is working for us. We still absolutely free range the goats. But there are some new concerns this year that we didn’t have last year and I wanted you to be aware of them.

The coolest part of free ranging is that we have successfully trained all the goats, including this year’s kids, to come when they are called. All I have to do is yell, “Come here, girls!” and they come running.

Lack Of Browse

When we first moved onto this property, there were a ton of briars, weeds, etc. Out of 8.5 acres there was probably only about 1 or 2 acres that weren’t completely covered in weeds/ brush. Since the goats have been doing an excellent job of clearing it out, it’s not coming back as hardy. Next year, it probably won’t come back at all.

If you are only getting goats to clear land and have every intention on selling them after their job is done, then this doesn’t really apply to you. If you have fallen in love with these creatures, you are going to have a bit of a problem. There are a couple options that we are exploring for this winter but they are expanding their nom nom zones and that can be a problem. The goats have migrated to the neighbors property and up the mountain. Neither of those are a problem…. yet.

Injuries

We have noticed an increase in injuries since free ranging. While only one of them have been severe injuries, they have still gotten hurt so I think it’s worth mentioning. In their search for food, they become a little more pushy when it comes to food. This makes sense because all animals do this. But when they ram each other and one falls? They are going to limp for a minute.

Or in the case of Stella, she was so hellbent that she was going to break into the chicken tractors that she got herself wedge between 2 of them…. were the tin roofing is. She sliced all 4 of her legs and it was pretty nasty. But she actually did herself and her babies a favor because she got put into the kidding stall for a couple days to allow the blukote to work. Now she is paying more attention to her babies and letting them nurse soooooooo.

Getting Into Trouble

These goats are testing my patience this year and while that is fine, I still want to throttle them. I said before that they will find the weak spot in the fences. Well, I wasn’t aware that potato leaves were considered toxic to goats….. in large quantities. I’ve given them potato leaves and never had a problem. But when they break into a garden and gorge themselves? Apparently that is a problem.

They have found every single hole in the yard and hurt themselves.

Or that time they pulled all my clothes off the clothesline and the pigs rolled all over them.

And then there was the time that the broke into the brooding/nursery were they stepped on 6 out of 10 chicks and caused the mommas to “attack” the goats.

So while free ranging goats is worth it for their health. It can be frustrating to deal with.

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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Spring To Do List For Homesteaders

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As winter comes to a close, homesteaders and farmers brace for the spring race. The sunshine lasts a little longer each day. Livestock is giving birth. Chicks are in the stores. Plants are ready to be put in the ground. All of this means that homesteaders have a spring to do list that is a mile long. But instead of being overwhelmed by it, we are going to eat an elephant one bite at a time.

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Get the tools you need to stay organized, track profits, and manage your homestead with ease!

Includes:
✅ Schedule F Tracker – Simplify tax prep
✅ Profit Calculator – Track earnings
✅ Hay Calculator – Plan livestock feed
✅ Garden Journal – Digital & printable
✅ Herd Health Tracker – Monitor animal care
✅ Simple Budget – Manage finances
✅ Backyard Homestead eBook – Essential tips

$99 value – now just $47! Start your homesteading journey today!

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The Spring To Do List

The goal of our spring to do list is prepping for summer, but also deal with all the things that come with spring itself. The reality is that we are just not going to be able to get to some things done once the garden is in full swing. That means that we have to get as much of this list marketed off. But what should YOUR list look like? Below is how we break down our spring to do list into categories.

  • Garden
  • Livestock
  • Poultry
  • Clean/ Organize

Everyone’s to do list for spring is different because every homestead is different. Some people focus on firewood during spring, others their garden is their only focus. But everyone can agree, spring is a busy time for any homestead.

The Ultimate Homesteader’s Starter Bundle – Only $47!

Get the tools you need to stay organized, track profits, and manage your homestead with ease!

Includes:
✅ Schedule F Tracker – Simplify tax prep
✅ Profit Calculator – Track earnings
✅ Hay Calculator – Plan livestock feed
✅ Garden Journal – Digital & printable
✅ Herd Health Tracker – Monitor animal care
✅ Simple Budget – Manage finances
✅ Backyard Homestead eBook – Essential tips

$99 value – now just $47! Start your homesteading journey today!

Buy Now

Spring To Do List: Garden

For us, putting in the garden is the highest priority every year. The first summer we were on our property we couldn’t get a garden in. We just had so many other things going on that it just wasn’t feasible. Last year, we got our garden in, but even with the woven ground cover, there was a ton of weeds. Which is scary because what would it have looked like without it?

We are expanding our gardens this year to include a kitchen garden. The original garden was great and produced a surprising amount of food, but it just wasn’t was I expected. The tomatoes we had just didn’t wow us with big tomatoes or even a decent harvest. BUT we did grow tomatoes which is always awesome. This spring we will be installing our kitchen garden and turning the original garden into our “bulk” garden.

The biggest project for spring in the gardens (after installing the kitchen garden) is to get the pigs and chickens in the gardens and let them root, till, and poop in the gardens. We are hoping that will boost our harvests and keep down the weeds.

We are also going to be starting all of our own seedlings this year. Which is going to be intense and we will probably run out of room in the basement, but that’s ok. We built a greenhouse to hold all the seeds. To put that into prospective, we plan on starting at least 100 tomato plants. Yes, 100. That may seem like a lot, but we eat tomato sauce in some form at least once a week. Then there’s ketchup, BBQ sauce, sloppy joes, etc. We need a ton of tomatoes.

If you haven’t already, I suggest getting your seeds now. You can order online or you can stop by pretty much any big box store and get your seeds from them. Personally, I order my seeds from Territorial Seed Company and Baker Creek. I have also ordered from other sites but I prefer these two.

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Spring To Do List: Livestock

Kidding season for the goats is pretty intense. Mainly because I am a nervous wreck. These girls are my favorite and I don’t want anything to happen to them. Plus, getting to see new favorite creatures born is amazing. But to prepare for it takes some effort. On my list is making sure that their birthing kits are ready and I have everything I need.

If anyone is interested, we filmed our most recent kidding. Be warned, it’s a goat giving birth so it’s pretty graphic. Bella gave us two beautiful babies; Mavrick and Goose. We will be retaining both of them and I’m so excited!

Spring To Do List: Poultry

Chickens, ducks and turkeys get their own category because we are placing a HUGE order this spring. We are talking 60 laying hens, 100 meat chickens and 15 turkeys. Why?

****Spoiler alert**** There are cons to raising chickens…. Just so you know.

We have had a lot of issues free ranging the chickens. The chickens will wonder off or we can’t find their eggs. It’s been one thing after the other. My previous flock of 60 chickens and 25 ducks is now down to 16 chickens and 9 ducks. Though we did butcher 6 meat ducks. So I have to get the various brooders ready to go for them.

I’m going to do a blog post on why free ranging the chickens didn’t work for us and what we plan to do different this time. But the reality is that true free ranging has cost us a TON of money. Between the initial costs of buying the chicks and then having to rebuy plus the lost income of selling eggs and chicks? It’s sickening how much money was spent or lost. So we are working on some strategies to stop the bleed.

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Because we are raising some chicken for friends and family, we are going to be raising 100 Freedom Rangers. We realized with our last batch of crosses that we just weren’t feeding them enough which led to them not gaining enough weight. That led to us having to wait to butcher them, making the meat tougher. This time we plan on moving them to a different area that is full of bugs, grass, and other yummy treats as well as feeding them all the feed they want.

The goal is to get all of this done before summer really kicks in but we will see what happens.

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Finally, We Clean and Organize

This is another long spring to do list for our homestead. We have slowly but surely been working on getting the property cleaned up and things moved around. It’s been a long process. We usually wait until fall/ winter to start working on the outside because the weeds and grass will hide a lot of the debris. When all the grasses die back, we can find these things and get them in the pile for trash.

Come spring, it’s the final push to get the unusable stuff off the property. Also on our spring to do list is gutting the basement to allow us to get our food storage room built and the rest of the animal storage done. It’s a tall order.

Also, I am a terrible cleaner. I have ADD and I go through crazy, spastic cleaning urges and everything MUST BE CLEAN. And then I squirrel out or get too busy and the house cleaning falls apart. Every late winter/ early spring, I try to get as much of the house cleaned and organized. I know as soon as summer hits, I’m going to be in the garden.

These are just some of the things we are doing this spring on the homestead. I would love to hear about what you are doing!

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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If you like this post, feel free to share it and follow us below on our social media accounts!