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Leigh

Canning Food Is Safe

November 12, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

I would say, as a whole, canning food is totally safe. But that being said, there are a lot of variables that can make canning food unsafe. In this blog post, I will go over all the reasons that you should consider canning and all the reasons why canning food is safe, practical and the things that can go wrong. But the end of this blog post, you will be able to make the decision of if canning food is safe for you and your family.

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Canning Food Is Safe

There are many reasons that canning food could become unsafe, but as a whole, canning is totally safe. In this blog post, I am going to talk about everything that I’ve heard about unsafe and safe canning practices. I’m also going to talk about things to keep in mind as you start your canning journey and how to minimize your risk of consuming unsafe foods. But most importantly, I am going to give you as much information as I can about Botulism, which is everyone’s biggest fear when it comes to canning.

What Is Canning?

Canning is a preservation method that allows food to be shelf stable for a longer period of time. There is some debate about the longevity of canned foods. I’ll discuss more about this below but the average shelf life for home canned foods is about 18 months.

There are two main types of canning here in the US; pressure canning and waterbath canning. Pressure canning is used for low acidity foods and waterbath canning is for high acidity foods. But understand something here, the US is one of the very, VERY few countries that use pressure canning as a food preservation method.

The jist of canning is this; put food in a jar, wipe the rim, put in a pot and heat it for a certain amount of time. There is a lot more to it, but for the point of figuring out if canning food is safe, that’s really it.

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The Dreaded Botulism

Canning food is a personal choice that you REALLY have to think about. For me, it was a no brainer. But I also understand that some people may not feel comfortable risking their family like this. So I wanted to drop some information for you to digest as we move through the rest of this post.

Botulism is an anaerobic bacteria which means that it lives and thrives in an environment with no oxygen. This means that canning is the perfect breeding ground for botulism because the whole purpose of heating the food and sealing it, is to get most the air out of the jar.

But to give you some stats, in 2022, there were 19 cases of foodborne Botulism. You can go here to play with the CDC’s BEAM Dashboard and see where I am getting these numbers. You want to make sure that you are putting “Clostridium” in the etiology filter, and specifically, we are looking for foodborne cases.

To give you a little more information about what would be considered a foodborne Botulism case, it could have been home canned food OR honey, baked potatoes and minced garlic in oil.

But before you start freaking out, keep reading.

Botulism spores cannot live in acidic environments with a pH less than 4.6. Nor is Botulism found in canned food where the internal temperatures have reached, at least, 240*.

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Safe Vs Unsafe Canning Practices

This is really where you are going to protect yourself and your family against most issues when it comes to canning. What is considered a safe or unsafe canning practice? Well, I’m going to tell you.

Not washing vegetables prior to canning is unsafe. Even if you peel the skin, you should still wash both the skin before peeling and the vegetable AFTER peeling. This decreases risk of contamination.

Raising the pH of your foods that are going to be waterbath canned is always safe. Though sometimes unnecessary, it is always good practice.

Boiling food for at least 10 minutes prior to eating is safe practice. This will kill any possible toxins that have grown and to be fair, most of the time you need to heat the food anyways.

Using unsterilized jars is an unsafe practice. Your jars should be clean before you put anything in it. Personally, I do not sterilize my jars prior to canning. But I do make sure that if I’m water bath canning, I dip those babies in boiling water, this will “sterilize” them as best as I can get. My dishwasher is a 13 or 16 year old boy. I’m just working with what I’ve got.

Not reusing lids is another safe canning practice, that I don’t always do. It really depends if the lid is in good shape but normally, I do use new lids. But I can’t say that I ALWAYS do.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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The Pressure Canning Debate

The debate is this: People have used waterbath, open kettle, dry canning, and other forms of canning, instead of pressure canning, for hundreds of years and the vast majority of them didn’t die from Botulism.

And that argument is correct for the most part. With a decade worth of recent reporting, there have been less than 1,000 cases of home canned Botulism cases. The risk of death or injury from other canning methods is extremely low, but never zero.

One of the things that I really want to bring up here is a two fold thing that you should decide for yourself. Again, I am NEVER going to tell you what to do. I’m going to give you information and tell you what I do. After that, you make your own decision. I follow the “Your kitchen, homestead, home, kids, your rules” philosophy, so you do you boo boo.

That being said, there is a lot of debate about pressure canning in other countries vs the US. Above, I told you that the US is one of the only states in the world that has and uses pressure canners to can food. But the US is NOT the only country that cans food. That being said, other countries have more cases of Botulism than we do, mind you it’s still really low at 82 in 2021. But these are SEVERAL countries in Europe.

All of that to say, your risk of getting Botulism or other injury, illness or death from home canned food is extremely low, but never zero.

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How Long Does Canned Food Stay Safe

12-18 months is the generally accepted timeframe for shelf stable home canned food, depending on food type, recipe, and canning method. I have found that most of the time, the food itself is still good long after 12-18 months, but the texture, nutrition, etc are all poor.

In my home, most food doesn’t last past the 18 month mark for two reasons. One, we’ve already eaten it and two, I need the jars. But there are a few cans of food that I wouldn’t touch after 18 months; beans and pickles are the two that come to mind immediately. But anything that sits in water for a long period isn’t going to taste very good after 18 months.

But there are two ways that I ALWAYS use to check if the food is still good. I ALWAYS look at the food before I open the jar. If it doesn’t look good, it’s probably not. If there’s mold, obviously toss it. Second, I smell it. If it doesn’t smell, we are probably good to go. If it does smell, does it smell like the cooked version of that food. For example, cooked carrots have a very distinct smell. Does the jar of canned carrots smell like cooked carrots? Yes, we are good to go. No, toss it.

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✅ Schedule F Tracker – Simplify tax prep
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✅ Garden Journal – Digital & printable
✅ Herd Health Tracker – Monitor animal care
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Starting Your Canning Journey

My suggestion for any new canner is to start small and easy. Don’t try to run a pressure canner without any canning experience. Don’t try and make a super difficult recipe when you don’t have a clue what you are doing. Start easy with jams, syrups, and salsa.

Once you’ve got that under your belt, start working with things like chow chow, relish, etc. Then get a pressure canner and start working on single vegetable jars like canning corn, green beans, etc.

After you’ve gotten a feel for how to use your canner, start working on harder things like beef stew, chicken noodle, etc and move on from there.

The biggest thing that I will recommend is always starting with tried, true, and tested recipes. Personally, I use recipes from all over the web. But I’ve been canning for over 15 years. I don’t always know what I’m doing, but I do know when things go sideways and something isn’t right.

But all that knowledge didn’t help me when I warped my pressure canner this year. I wasn’t paying attention and didn’t add enough water to the canner. That was an expensive mistake. But it happens.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Canning Food Is Safe

At the end of the day, canning food is safe. It’s far safer than texting and driving (400 deaths/year on average). It’s safer running a marathon. And while that sounds funny, it really is the reality.

Canned food is safe as long as you follow safe practices and don’t try to out can your abilities. Learn, grow, and enjoy the fruits of your labor!

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Filed Under: Canning, Emergency Preparation, Frequently Asked Questions Tagged With: Canning, emergency, emergency food, Garden, pressure canning

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Goat Milk Coffee Creamer

November 9, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

Jump to Recipe

When life hands you lemons, you are supposed to make lemonade. Well, I did that yesterday. Today, well today there was a mishap in the freezer. Instead of letting it get the best of me, I decided to get a project done that I have been meaning to do, but never had the time…. Today was the day I was going to make a batch of goat milk coffee creamer, whether I wanted to or not.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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They say you shouldn’t cry over spilled milk

I don’t know who “They” are but I almost cried today when I went to put up two half gallon mason jars of goat milk. When I looked in our freezer, I saw that two jars had burst and I felt tangible pain. I started checking over my other jars and sure enough twelve half gallon mason jars were broken. I had a decision to make, either leave them in there and deal with each jar as we pulled them out to use it. Or fix it now while I had the chance. I’m not one to kick the can down the road, so I grabbed a milk crate and brought all twelve jars upstairs.

Finally after almost six hours, I finally had all of the milk melted, jars thrown away, and all twelve jars triple strained. I wanted to cry every time I found a glass shard, but this is precious milk. This is the only milk I can drink without stomach issues and when we have to help bottle feed, this is the milk we use. Not to mention, the only way I can get more is by breeding goats, and then waiting six months.

They work so hard on that milk!

After everything was all said and done, I had managed to salvage all the milk except a few drops, only to run out of freezer bags. **facepalm** This is my life.

Now, I am not 100% sure what caused the jar failure. I have frozen mason jars for years and never had an issue. If I had to guess, I would say either a head space problem or half gallon mason jars shouldn’t be frozen. It doesn’t really matter since I won’t do it again, but it would be nice to know for the future.

Anyways, the whole point is I have one and a half gallons of goat milk that I need to do something with. I could refreeze them, and I may still. But right now, I am making coffee creamer. I may even try my hand at making cheese so stay tuned.

How to make Goat Milk Coffee Creamer

I’m going to start this with saying this, you do NOT need goat milk to make your own creamer. Any milk will work. However, since I have goats and gut issues, I use goat milk.

Using a 1:1 ratio whisk your milk and condensed milk into a thick bottomed sauce pot. You can make your own condensed milk by adding about 2/3c sugar to 2c of milk. Stir until sugar is dissolved and then let simmer for about 30 minutes without stirring on low heat.

Allow it to heat for a few minutes to mix really well. If you are going to use any flavorings now is the time to add them. I’ll go over my flavorings below.

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Pour into your creamer vessel, I use these if it’s going in the fridge, or old creamer containers if going into the freezer.

Allow to cool. Then store in either fridge or freezer.

That’s it! You don’t have to be some wizard to make creamer. If you don’t like “Foo Foo” creamer, just whisk your milk an condensed milk together. Done.

When you are ready to drink it, make sure to shake really well first.

Peppermint Mocha on the Left and Cinnamon Cake on the right

Flavorings

All flavorings are based on a quart, so adjust your recipe as needed. Also start with small amounts and then add more if you want. It’s harder to take away than to add more.

Peppermint Mocha

1T cocoa powder 1t peppermint extract (be careful with peppermint extract, it tends to taste very oily)

Cinnamon Cake

1T cinnamon, 1t butter extract, 1t cake batter flavoring

Banana Nut Bread

1t cinnamon, 1t butter extract, 1t cake batter flavoring, 1t maple syrup flavor, 1t banana flavor

Pumpkin Spice

1T Pumpkin spice flavor on this one, you can add additional cinnamon or cake batter to give it a more cake-y taste but test it first with just the pumpkin and see how you like it.

While I’m still mad about the jars breaking, I am glad that I was able to finally get around to making creamer for us. I just hate that it had to be like that. Oh, well.

Goat Milk Coffee Creamer

Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Cook Time 5 minutes mins
Servings: 1 Quart
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 14 oz Sweetened Condensed Milk
  • 14 Oz Milk
  • Flavorings

Equipment

  • 1 Thick bottomed pot
  • 1 Spatula
  • 1 Whisk
  • 1 Quart Container

Method
 

  1. Pour milk into thick bottomed pot and start heating on low
  2. Stir in condensed milk
  3. Add any flavorings you want
  4. Whisk together until combined. If using powdered flavorings this could take a while. Let sit for a few minutes and then whisk again. Repeat until most or all of the flavoring is dissolved
  5. Add to quart container and allow to cool before refrigerating

Notes

You can absolutely freeze this if you have a freezer safe container.

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Filed Under: Goats, Recipes Tagged With: Goat Milk, Goats, Homestead, kitchen

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The Actual Cost of Raising Livestock

November 5, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

Do you get “free” eggs or “free” milk? If you think it’s free, think again. Your chickens do not produce free eggs. Your goats do not produce free milk. And when you are drowning in eggs or milk, you may be tempted to just give it away. I wanted to breakdown the actual costs associated with common livestock before you get too far in debt trying to care for these creatures. So what is the actual cost of raising livestock?

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Actual Cost Of Raising Livestock

There are many variables when it comes to the cost of raising livestock. You’ve got the initial investment of the animal, then the care and upkeep of that animal. Not to mention possible vet care, feed, fencing, and replacement animals. There is so much that goes into the care and keeping of livestock that anything that you get out of them puts you solidly in the red. It takes a long time and constant vigilance to make a profit when raising livestock.

The Animal

Initially, all animals have to be brought to the homestead. Rarely, though it does happen, is livestock left behind when old owners sell and new owners buy a piece of property. We were hoping that the previous owner’s Brahma would stick around, he didn’t. But that being said, we had to bring almost every single animal onto this property. How much did that cost us?

Our goats are our most expensive creature here. We have spent about $3,000 on the goats we bought. Bebe, Stella, Finnegan, and Sébastien are the only ones we haven’t paid for since they were born here. That also doesn’t count their registration fees. That gives an average of $375 per goat. But we paid way more than that for some of them.

The chickens are by far the cheapest animal on the homestead but still pretty expensive at about $5 each. Ducks were about $10 each. The more “exotic” or heritage breeds are obviously more expensive.

Containment

This comes in a couple of different forms but the most common is fencing and housing. We were lucky enough to get our fencing installed pre-inflation. The cost of the fencing alone has almost doubled, not to mention the T posts, clips or gates. Our cost was right at $1200 for the 3 goat pastures.

Our initial coop cost us about $500 and while I really liked it, we out grew it quickly. Now, we have a metal shed that houses our chickens and ducks for the night. That set us back another $500 but effectively quadrupled our square footage.

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Our goat barn is another cost that is pretty high. I think we paid about $2200 in materials for it. Unfortunately, it’s not great and is going to need to be torn down and rebuilt not only at a better location, but also bigger because we have more goats now. The cost of rebuilding is estimated at $1500.

Feed/ Supplements

This is probably the most flexible of all the costs because you may not need to buy hays, grains, and other feeds. I talked in depth about how much hay a goat needs here. But something else to consider is that it’s very difficult for animals to get their nutritional needs 100% met with browse or forage alone.

The Hay Calculator:

If you aren’t math-y (don’t worry I’m not either), check out our Hay Calculator. It literally does ALL of the math for you and gives you totals based on what you want your goals.

On the second page, you can track where you’ve bought hay, what you spent and how long it lasted.

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My feed bill is about $400-600/mo depending on the time of year and what they need. In the winter, they eat more grains and hay so the cost is closer to $600+. In the summers, I don’t have to feed as much because they have access to all the browse, forage and bugs that they could ever eat. The bucks have to stay in their pasture in the summers because they get a little too excited to see my girls. So I still have to hay them.

Supplements are another cost to consider into the actual cost of raising livestock. Goats need minerals. Chickens need extra calcium. During kidding season, I will go through a bulk pack of Tums in about a month. Then there’s the iodine, iron injections, B complexes and more. I spend about $500 every 6 months in supplements.

Vet Care/ Medications

Within the first 48 hours of having Oakley and Bailey, I had spent over $300 on them. They had gotten into mountain laurel and Bailey almost died. I also spend about $200 a year on fecals. I could do them myself but it’s easier and more time saving to have the vet do it. The vet comes out once or twice a year to do a herd health check and make sure that they are doing good. Getting 12 goats to the vet would be almost impossible. In 2021 we spent $3,000 in vet bills. In 2022, we are on par to spend $5,000. That includes the fecals, prescription medications, wormers, and other supplements.

Another thing to note when it comes to vet bills is that as you get more comfortable and confident in your care of livestock, the less you will spend in vet bills. That’s not to say that you won’t spend any money, but it does go down. We spent about $2,000 in 2023 and maybe $500 in 2024 for vet bills. Most of that is culling sickly animals and the other part of that is having a better understanding of what is happening with these animals and caring for them appropriately.

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Miscellaneous Materials

I went pretty in depth in these posts about what to have on hand throughout the year.

What To Have On Hand During Kidding Season

What Do you Need to Care for Goats

How To Brood Chickens Inside

You can also check out this from Redfin article as well! “Whether you’re planning to raise chickens at home in Asheville, NC, Eugene, OR, or Burlington, VT, check out this Redfin article we were featured in on 5 Chicken Coop Ideas For A Thriving Flock“

But there is so much more.

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Bedding runs us about $600 during the winter. In the summer, we just keep the barns mucked out and have them on dirt floors. But in the winters, it gets so raw and wet that it’s better for them to have some sort of bedding.

Buckets, troughs and other feeders: My initial investment was somewhere around $200 for these and I plan to have the ability to replace them every year or so, depending on if they, or the kids, wreck them.

Then we have things like hoof trimmers, syringes and needles, milk pails, glass jars for milk and cheese making supplies. We’re probably another $500 there.

So our total cost for 2022 for all of this was: about $12,000.

For 2023 we are on par to hit $20,000. The split between chickens and goats would be about $2,000 for chickens and about 18,000 for goats.

But What Do We Get Out Of It?

The Cost

The average cost of goat milk is $9/ quart in my area. Each girl gives me about a quart of milk a day so each one produces about $270/mo worth of milk. They didn’t give me any milk last year, so we’ll count the estimated $18,000. If they keep production at $270 x3 girls in milk, my milk will cost me $8,280. Yes, cost me. They don’t save me a dime. Unless we sell babies and even then, it won’t make up the $8,280.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

The chicken eggs go for about $5/dozen in my area and I get about a dozen eggs every 2-3 days. So we’ll say 2.5 days for a dozen eggs. If they keep production up for the whole year, which they should since we have different ages on different laying schedules, they will cost me $1,280 a year. They also don’t make me a dime.

So Why Do We Keep Them?

Well, the goats help clear the land and that helps keep the predator population down. If the goats can keep the brush down, it allows us to see and take care of predators. They also provide compost for the gardens. Goats are also my form of therapy. I’ve been to counseling over the years and I’m just not a fan of talking my problems out with strangers. But give me a goat? All that stress melts away. AND they’re adorable.

Chickens are probably the best cost to advantage ratio. They eat all the spiders, grubs, termites, and other nasty things. They help turn the soil in the winter and the tomatoes love their compost. If they get too old or too mean, they go to freezer camp. Plus, they give us eggs.

Beyond all of that, the animals have taught all of us patience. They’ve taught us to care for things more than ourselves. The animals have also taught compassion for our food, whether it be milk, eggs, cheese or meat. The goats have shown the boys biology lessons that they never would have gotten in the city or in public school. They’ve taught us life skills that we never would have gotten without them. And most importantly they’ve taught us about death and how to cope with it.

And that is worth more than money.

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Filed Under: Animals, Chickens, Goats, Pigs Tagged With: Chickens, Chicks, Eggs, Goats

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Homestead Infrastructure

November 2, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

Over the last several weeks, Jared and I have been going through our budget and project list for 2023. We decided that this year, we were really going to focus on the infrastructure of the homestead. I knew we couldn’t be the only one, so I wanted to put together a post on homestead infrastructure and what it means.

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✅ Garden Journal – Digital & printable
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✅ Backyard Homestead eBook – Essential tips

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Every homestead is different, so every infrastructure plan is going to be different. But I wanted to go through our list of homestead infrastructure with you so that you can get some ideas on what you want to do with your own homestead infrastructure and why. If you have your own ideas, please list them in the comments below!

What Is Homestead Infrastructure

The first thing we need to do is define infrastructure: “the basic physical and organizational structures and facilities (e.g. buildings, roads, power supplies) needed for the operation of a society or enterprise.”(Dictonary.com).

But what does that mean for a homestead? We aren’t necessarily operating as a society, community or enterprise. We are also not necessarily building roads, grids, or buildings on a large scale. But that doesn’t mean that the same idea doesn’t work.

When I talk about homestead infrastructure, I’m talking about barns, sheds, and other outbuildings. I’m also talking about fencing, pastures and gardens. It comes inside the house in the form of canning, storage, freezers, and energy efficiency. As your coming up with ideas on what your infrastructure will be, think about all the things in your local community.

Grocery stores= garden, fruit trees, canning

Milk, cheese, butter, eggs and meat= cows, pigs, goats, chickens

Roads= Trails or walk ways to barns, livestock pens, gardens, etc

Grids like water, electric, gas= wells, solar, firewood

Schools, community center, grocery store= home

By setting up your own infrastructure, you are going to prepare yourself, family and homestead for future success. Also remember, if you can’t do something like build a barn or put in an acre garden, that’s okay too. Just work on the things you can do.

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Why Infrastructure Is Important

When you are setting up your homestead, it is incredibly easy to get overwhelmed with the things you want to do or think you should do. I wrote a couple blog posts about setting goals, mistakes we’ve made, and things we have learned, but the biggest take away is that you need to know what you want, and how to get there.

Infrastructure on your homestead is so easily overlooked because you think you’re doing it with every project you do. But if you really stop and think about it, are you actually setting up something that is going to last for years to come, or are you simply reacting to the things you think you should be doing?

For example:

We bought goats on an impulse. Then as we bought more goats and as winter was barreling down on us, we decided to build a goat barn. They say hindsight is 20/20, and they are right. That first barn kind of works but is also kind of a disaster. Does it keep them dry? Sorta. Does it keep them warm? Yes. Will it keep predators out? Uh, maybe?

The barn is built right in a rain run off area. When we built it, we had no idea. But now it’s becoming an issue with all the summer rains we have gotten. The entire thing has about 2 inches of muck building up the sides, there are leaks in the roof and the “ventilation” we thought was a great idea? Not so much.

That being said, the infrastructure we put in? Isn’t working. That’s okay-ish. It’s a learning experience. But it’s also expensive.

Had we planned our infrastructure better it would save us money, time and a ton of frustration. That’s why it’s so important. But the learning part? That’s important, too.

Setting Up Your Homestead Infrastructure

For the planners, this is the best step. If you’re a do-er, find yourself a planner. I say that because I am a planner and I have about a million lists floating around for different projects and plans. In fact, I have a “hard copy” of my Pinterest in a 3″ binder. Jared is a do-er. He has zero desire to plan and that is just fine.

Our list of infrastructure is five pages typed and while yours doesn’t have to be that long, it does need to be that thorough. What does it need to have on it? Check out the example below:

Project: Goat Barn

Dimensions or Specs: Current: 8×13, Increase to 12×16. Current “milking area” will turn into a weaning pen and new milk parlor and kidding space created. Door from inner barn to milking area to avoid having to haul goats outside to be milked. Inner barn area will be increase to 8×10 minimum. Storage area in kidding/milking area for milking supplies. Bedding racks to get them off the ground. Gutters to IBC’s to help with water.

Resources On Hand: current barn will be torn apart, bleached/cleaned and painted. Materials that are reusable will be reused.

Resources Needed: t1-11, studs, paint, new hardware, more roofing, plywood or similar for bedding racks, screws, concrete pavers to get wood off the ground and possibly gravel in barn and in dry lot that will be created around the barn

Plan of Action: Jared and I will build a couple new goat shacks so the girls can have a place to go for the days that their barn will be moved. Barn will be torn down, cleaned and painted. New area for barn will be cleared and leveled. Water run off trenches will be “installed” to divert water from barn. Pavers placed and walls built. Interior built and painted. Pavers for milking area. Gravel, if decided, will go into inner barn, weaning area and dry lot.

Estimated cost: $1000

Homestead Infrastructure Ideas

Below are just a few of the things on our infrastructure list and each one has it’s own Project Planning Worksheet in my binder

  • IBC’s for firewood and water
  • Fencing for new livestock
  • Meat animals
  • Fence in Upper Garden
  • Goat Barn
  • Firewood/wood lot
  • Energy Efficiency
  • Yard hydrants
  • Solar panels
  • Generator
  • Hay Barn
  • Outdoor kitchen/ butchering area
  • Erosion control
  • Food Storage Room
  • Well Bladder
  • Attic Gables

Before you get overwhelmed, remember, this is MY entire 2023 focus. Paralysis by analysis is a thing and you don’t need to get overwhelmed. Make a list and see what you can do. See what it’s going to take for you to do those things. Then get to work.

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Prepping Firewood For Winter

October 29, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

If you heat with firewood, you know the drill because every year it’s the same. But for those that are new to heating with firewood, I wanted to get you ahead of the game. It’s not as easy as lighting a fire and going about your business. There is a lot of time, energy and muscle that goes into heating with firewood. I spoke about it a lot in this post. It’s also not a winter only thing. But by prepping firewood for winter now, or even earlier, you will be warm and cozy.

If you are new to heating with firewood and are looking to master the finer points of it. We’ve got a great eBook that goes in depth of what tools you should consider, how and where to stack, how to build a fire and so much more!

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How to start prepping firewood for winter

Every year is the same for us, we pick out trees in the spring/ early summer that need to come down because they are dead or dying. Then Jared takes them down and turns them into rounds. We haul the rounds to our woodlot at the back of the property to be split. Then they season until they are ready or needed. But there are a couple things that you should take into account when prepping firewood for winter. Things like location, stacking, tools and types of wood.

Location

The first step is to locate an outside space that is about 20-30 feet from your home, with good drainage, sunlight, and airflow.

You don’t want your firewood pile to be too close to the house because of bugs. But you also don’t want it too far away because a hike through the woods in a blizzard is no fun. I have found that the sweet spot is usually about 20-30 feet. If you have the ability to put it next to concrete, like a driveway? That helps too because there is now a physical barrier between your wood pile and home.

Drainage is another thing to consider when looking for a spot for your wood pile. You want to make sure that you have adequate drainage so that your wood pile isn’t sitting in a puddle of water after a hard rain. Our farm is mostly hills so finding a spot that will drain water away from the pile but was still close was a chore. Also we have our wood pile up on pallets and this helps keep it off the ground but cinderblocks work just as well.

Lastly, you want to consider the amount of sunlight that will reach your wood pile. Ideally, you will have your pile in a sunny location that is semi protected from the rain and with good airflow. Without airflow and sun, your wood pile will take forever to dry. This late in the game (September) you need all the help you can get.

PS don’t tarp your wood pile! I KNOW it’s tempting. But if you tarp it there will not be enough airflow to dry out the wood. Condensation will build under the tarp and keep things damp. If you will remember to take it off after a storm? Sure, you can tarp it. But don’t leave it on there.

Stacking Firewood

If you ask my boys how to stack firewood, they’ll tell you, “In a pile?”

Save on Seeds

But there is more to it than that, and they know it, too. The biggest thing to remember when stacking firewood is to get it up off the ground and to stack bark side up. I’m sure we know why stacking on the ground is bad but indulge me as I explain it to those who may not know.

When you stack firewood straight on the ground you are going to introduce a ton of moisture to the wood. Not only from the ground, but also when it rains the water will hit the ground and splash up. Or if that bottom row stays damp, that moisture will travel through that wood, if only because it can’t dry, and not allow the next row to dry. That goes directly against what we are trying to do, right? We want the wood to be dry and free of rot before we put it in our fireplace, insert or stove.

By keeping firewood off the ground, we are also increasing airflow. If air can move under the wood, it will dry faster. But the most important? All that hard work of cutting, chopping, stacking, etc will be for not, if it rots.

The other part of stacking is keeping the bark side up. Obviously, sometimes you can’t and that’s okay. But keeping the bark side up will allow water to roll off and not absorb into the wood. A moisture meter will be your best friend when it comes to checking if your wood is dry enough to burn. Usually you want about 20% moisture or less.

Lastly, stacking in a # way is unnecessary unless you are trying to dry wood faster. Those stacks are easily knocked over and having to restack firewood is not on my list of good times.

Tools for prepping firewood for winter

Table Grinder– Sharpening your axe or other tools is a great way to extend their life.

Axe- A good axe will get you far with chopping firewood. We use a log splitter for the most part but we will also use an axe.

Hatchet– We use ours to help chop kindling and other smaller pieces that the axe is simply too big for.

Gas powered log splitter- We will be getting this log splitter here in a few months. The electric one works, but a gas one is a lot stronger.

Tractor Supply

Electric log splitter– This guy is a work horse. I really like using him but the downside is that we can only go so far with an extension cord. It also doesn’t have a ton of muscle to drive through some of the larger or wetter pieces of wood. BUT I would absolutely buy this one again. It has been worth every single penny.

If you are new to heating with firewood and are looking to master the finer points of it. We’ve got a great eBook that goes in depth of what tools you should consider, how and where to stack, how to build a fire and so much more!

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Moisture Meter– As I said above, you will want to check the moisture of your wood to make sure it is drying. We’ve got this one and another brand and it has done well for us.

Types Of Wood

First and foremost, any wood is good wood when you are cold. BUT, there are dangers to using certain woods or green wood. Creosote is a thing and it’s pretty dangerous. So let’s talk about types of woods to use.

Hard woods like maple, ash, birch, oak and walnut are great for burning hotter longer. They also don’t produce a ton of smoke.

Tractor Supply

Soft woods like pine, fir, and cedar are okay and can be used but they don’t burn as hot and will usually be gone quickly.

Green woods are what are really bad for your stove, fireplace or chimney. Green wood produces a ton of creosote and smoke.

If you would like a copy of my firewood eBook, you can order it here!

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Our Homestead Buying Guide

October 26, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

I’ve been getting asked a lot, “Where do you buy x?” So I figured I would take the time to list out where we buy the stuff for our goats, chickens, canning, seeds, garden stuff, and other odds and ends that we have used and really like. This is a VERY link heavy post, so here is our affiliate disclosure again. It doesn’t cost you a penny, but it does help us here on the homestead. The other thing is that I am not going to push you to buy anything that we have not already bought, tested and liked/loved. You don’t need that and to be honest, that’s not who I am. Here is the Homestead Buying Guide.

The Ultimate Homesteader’s Starter Bundle – Only $47!

Get the tools you need to stay organized, track profits, and manage your homestead with ease!

Includes:
✅ Schedule F Tracker – Simplify tax prep
✅ Profit Calculator – Track earnings
✅ Hay Calculator – Plan livestock feed
✅ Garden Journal – Digital & printable
✅ Herd Health Tracker – Monitor animal care
✅ Simple Budget – Manage finances
✅ Backyard Homestead eBook – Essential tips

$99 value – now just $47! Start your homesteading journey today!

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PS: if you don’t have a Honey account and you shop online a ton, I highly suggest you download it. You can use my code here. They are great because it can automatically search for coupon codes and you earn cash back on purchases. I’ve earned $300 in the last year. It’s worth the minimal effort AND you can add items to your honey list which will tell you when prices have dropped or if it’s at the lowest price.

Livestock

Goats

You can read any of my posts involving my goats here.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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We get most of our goat gear from Tractor Supply. Their prices can be higher than a local feed store on some things but cheaper on others. For example; my local feed store has alfalfa pellets for $17.99/ 50# bag. Tractor supply has theirs for $19.99 as of this writing.

Buckets– We get these for feed, water, and so many other things. They are really useful.

Troughs- We use two different kinds. This one is the one we hang on the fence at different points to give them feed, alfalfa, or whatever else. We use this one for portability or if we are hanging a temporary feeder in a kidding pen for them.

Balling Gun– This helps us get pills down into the goats without having to worry about getting bitten. Yes, that happens a lot.

Tractor Supply

Hoof Trimmers- We’ve bought two of these, and I’m a fan of this one. It just seems sturdier and I like it better. BUT this one from TSC is fine too. It’s not that I don’t like it per se, I just prefer the orange one. If you’ve got some money to spend, I would HIGHLY suggest the Hoof Boss. I’ve seen it used and it does a fantastic job. It is on our wish list of things to buy.

Meds- Now, I’m going to say this. We treat a lot of aliments on our homestead. But we also have an amazing vet that we can call any time… almost. But having a few meds on hand is going to save you a ton of heartache. Meds to get from a vet: Thiamine, Banamine and a good antibiotic. Things to have on hand that you can get from a feed store: Red Cell, Probiotics, Safeguard or Cydectin (or your choice of dewormer), electrolytes, Iron, B-complex, and Copper Wire Bolus. On the copper wire, make sure you get kids or adults based on what you have.

Chickens

You can read about how we brood chickens here. The list below are links to the items we have bought.

Incubator- We use this one and have had great success with it. The only thing I don’t like is the size. I wish it were bigger but beggar and choosers.

Brooder lights- We have used CHE’s like this one, but it can cause the chickens to attack other chickens. So a red light and housing is what you really need. We also use pine shavings for bedding for both the goats and the chickens.

Tractor Supply

Feed- When we have chicks, we start them on a medicated feed. This helps with cocci and other harmful organisms. Remember, you really only need a week or two worth of this feed. What we do is feed approximately 1#/ chick. If you have two chicks, you would need 2#, if you have 50 you need 50#. This is not perfect, it’s really a guess. When we do our meat chickens, we buy one bag of medicated chick start and than it’s regular chick feed after that.

Feeders/waterers- We use this feeder when they are little, and this one when they are bigger. However! If you’ve got some money to spend or you are only interested in buying one thing, this is the feeder you need. I love it! AND we can hang it, which really does decrease the mess. It also works fantastic with the ducklings.

When chicks are little, they need a ton of water, but they are also extremely messy. So finding one that isn’t going to make a mess but also be easy to fill has been difficult. This waterer is good, not great, but it will get the job done when they are little. As they get bigger, we use this one. We found that the metal ones did not hold up well at all. If you have a waterer you love, let me know in the comments.

House Supplies

Canning

Alright! I’ve been waiting to do this one!

Canners- This is my water bath canner and this is my pressure canner. I’ve got two of the presto pressure canners and I love them. One of these days, I am going to get this mack daddy. I can process 19 quarts a time. Which replaces BOTH of my other canners. The price tag is steep at around $500 but it’s got a life time warranty and it’s worth every penny.

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Jars- All I’m going to say is this: when you think you have enough, double it. Then double it again. Here’s why. I have over a thousand jars. When I can, I can for an entire year. So when I am figuring out how many jars of tomato sauce I need for the year, it’s not a couple dozen. I can 104+ quart jars. When I can green beans, it’s not a couple pints. It’s 146+ quarts and 146+ pints. Same with corn. Soups and stews is another big ticket item in my house. We are talking 200 quarts and 200 pints-ish. Sometimes it’s more. That’s already 600 quart jars that I need. So while you may not need that many, be prepared that you will need more than you think.

Funnels- Yall, you will never, and I mean never have enough funnels. I love the metal funnels and I have at least 6 of them. Make sure to get wide mouth and regular!

Jar grabby things- Get a bunch of these too. You will lose them or the handles will break while you are mid canning.

https://www.wickedgoodcupcakes.com/shop-online/thinking-of-you-boxes

Books- Canning cookbooks are some of the best investments that you can make. This book is hands down the best period. Buy it. She’s got a ton of amazing soups in there and they are divine. This is another really good one with some great recipes. If you are new to canning, I will recommend getting a Ball Book. There is a ton of great information in them. BUT after you get some experience, or after doing your own research, take it with a grain of salt. Some of the recipes are extremely convoluted and contradictory. Lastly, I’m not a Prepper, per se. BUT I do put up my own food because after the pandemic, I realized that relying on the grocery store isn’t a super smart idea. That being said, this book has some great recipes, ideas, and more for being self reliant.

Check back for more items as we find them and add them to the list!

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How To Start Canning

October 22, 2024 by Leigh 1 Comment

Y’all! It’s canning season! I am beyond excited! Over the next few months I will be sharing with you ALL (okay, most) of the canning recipes that I have accumulated over the years. From things like salsa and broths to more complex stews and soups. I’ll also show you how we can basics like corn, green beans, and beans. But today? Today I want to talk to you about how to start canning.

How To Start Canning

I have always been fascinated by the idea that I didn’t have to go to the grocery store to buy food. You mean I could have a garden and animals that provided food for me? And I could put in a little work and have healthy food throughout the year. I also didn’t need a million freezers to store food and have to worry about a power failure? So I started researching, because that’s what I do when I don’t understand something.

I found out that canning is actually pretty simple. Put the food in a jar, tighten, and put it into a waterbath canner or pressure canner, and set the timer. The hard part comes in knowing which way to process the foods and for how long. If you don’t allow the “pearl clutchers” to get in the way, you can have shelves and shelves full of healthy food that will last for a couple years.

With this knowledge in hand, I went to work. I started with canning apple sauce and over the years, I have canned hundreds, if not thousands of jars of food.

how to start canning

Take the fear out of canning

What do I mean by pearl clutchers? Well, these are the people that whole heartedly agree that what the USDA, FDA and Ball say, you must do. There is a ton of fear about canning that is perpetuated by these organizations. They make it feel like the only thing you can can are jelly, jams, and a couple of soups. To give you an example: The Ball Book Of Canning says you cannot can chili with beans but on the next page, you can can ham and bean soup. That doesn’t make any sense.

Tractor Supply

So my take on it is this: if the store can put it in a can, or Grandma didn’t kill her entire family, then it’s probably okay to eat. If I follow basic kitchen cleanliness while I cook, follow proper canning times? It’s probably okay. When I take the jar off the shelf to make it, and it looks good, smells good and I boil it for 10 minutes? It’s probably okay to eat.

how to start canning

Random tangent

The latest update from the CDC says that in 2018 there were 242 cases of botulism in the US. Of that, only 18 were foodborne. Only 3 of those cases were linked to home canned food. You can read the full article here. Does it happen? Absolutely. But there are 329.5 million people in the US as of 2020. That means that your chance of consuming botulism is pretty close to zero.

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Do your research, find solid recipes, and get to canning. It will be okay.

Let’s Get Started

So you have decided to take the plunge and start canning. But what do you need to get started? My friends over at Southern Dream Homestead has a great blog post on canning and I highly suggest it. But the short version is this:

You will need a huge pot that can handle a fair amount of jars. Most home canners use something similar to this one. I like it simply because I can use the pot for various other things. When I am pressure canning, I use huge pots for soups and stews making 36 Quarts at a time. This can also be used as an old fashion stock pot and as a water bath canner. The utility is great!

A good pressure canner will go a long way. I have two of them that I run at the same time during canning season. This one from Amazon is about $130 as of this writing. Shop it around and look at Walmart, Target or other stores. They may have it cheaper. Edit to add: Here is a link for a pressure canner from Walmart.

Arguably, the most important thing when it comes to canning is great recipes. This is the cookbook that I refer back to every year and I love it. I have made several of soups/ stews in this cook book and they are absolutely divine. The chicken chowder and enchilada soup are family favorites. Do yourself a favor and get either the hardback or spiral version. Paperback cookbooks do not last long in the kitchen.

Some other cookbooks I like are: Ball’s Cook Book, The Homestead Canning Cookbook, and Meals In A Jar.

I also have a quick reference guide that you can download get in my members only section. Sign up below and you will be emailed the password.

Lastly, you need tools. This one is a bit more expensive, but the tools feel a little more quality than some of the others. Regardless, you should probably get a couple sets of jar grabbers, funnels, ladles, etc. This is a good kit, but always get extra jar grabbers and funnels. You will always need more than you have.

You may have noticed that I left out jars. Get Ball Mason Jars, period. Yes, you may have some success with other jars. You may even find some obscure brand that holds up amazing. However, Ball is tried and true for a reason, their jars will literally stand the test of time. But PLEASE don’t buy them from amazon. You are going to pay through the nose for them.

The best place I have found for mason jars is Wal-Mart. Depending on where you live, your prices will vary, but I can get a case of quart mason jars for around $16 and a case of pint for $12. Half gallons come in a 6pk for $12. Amazon wants to double or triple that price. So shop around. Oh, and stock up on lids whenever you can find them.

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Finally, get yourself some good sturdy shelves. You do not want to spend an entire summer canning your heart out, getting burns, and sore muscles to have your plastic shelves fail. I’ve got a great tutorial on how we built our canning shelves and after several years, we still love them.

So get your supplies and get started in the kitchen. I promise you, when you don’t want to sweat your butt off making dinner, that can of chili or chicken noodle soup is going to taste amazing. You can find my make ahead pickle brine and green bean recipes by clicking the links. Those are two very easy ways to get started on your canning journey.

how to start canning

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Make Ahead Pickling Brine

October 15, 2024 by Leigh 8 Comments

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If your garden is anything like mine, we’ve got a couple of pickling cucumbers every day, but never enough to can a big batch of dill pickles. Or you’ve got a couple of peppers but can’t do much with them because there’s only five today, 3 tomorrow and 17 on Wednesday. Welcome to the world of gardening, right? If you think there’s nothing you can do about it, think again! I’ve got a solution to your pickle…. see what I did there? Read on for my pickling brine and famous dill pickle recipe.

The Ultimate Homesteader’s Starter Bundle – Only $47!

Get the tools you need to stay organized, track profits, and manage your homestead with ease!

Includes:
✅ Schedule F Tracker – Simplify tax prep
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✅ Garden Journal – Digital & printable
✅ Herd Health Tracker – Monitor animal care
✅ Simple Budget – Manage finances
✅ Backyard Homestead eBook – Essential tips

$99 value – now just $47! Start your homesteading journey today!

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What Is Pickling Brine?

Simply put, pickling brine is just the solution that is going help preserve your fruits or veggies. The brine is vinegar, salt, and water. That’s it. Some people add sugar to cut the vinegar and salt down but I don’t. When I want a pickle, I want it to be salty, vinegar-y, and delicious.

pickling brine

What can you use Pickling Brine for?

Anything. Literally. Obviously pickles is the first choice but I have used left over brine for brisket, pulled pork, marinades, and Jared’s Bloody Mary’s. The options are endless. We will also pickle peppers, onions, carrots and okra. You can even use it in some fruits if you want. The best part is that you can make a batch, throw it in the fridge or on the shelf and always have it on hand.

How to make the Brine

The brine is so easy to make, you can’t screw it up. The recipe is 10c of water, 3/4c salt, and 2c vinegar. Don’t worry, I have a recipe card at the bottom for my favorite dill pickles. You can add sugar and the ratio for the recipe above is 1-1.5c sugar.

Also, you do not need fancy pickling/ canning vinegar or salt. Skip the upcharge on those items, they are pretty much the same as regular salt or vinegar. I do use pink Himalayan salt but that’s just because that’s what I always have on hand.

pickling brine
The reddish/brown tinge is due to horrible lighting in my kitchen and the pink salt

I add all of the ingredients above to a big stock pot of water. Also, I use stainless steel pots because it’s not reactive…. and it’s the only thing I have on hand that will handle the quantity I make. Next, use hot water to start dissolving the salt and bring everything to a boil.

Once it’s boiling I will can it into whatever size mason jars I have, wipe the rim, add a ring and lid, then wait for the glorious pings. I do not process them in a canner.

If I don’t get a ping, I just throw that one in the fridge to use first. Why don’t I water bath it? Because the pH of the pickling solution (without sugar) is 3.2. Not many organisms are going to grow in that. And the heat from the boiling brine will create a vacuum seal from the jar. But if you want to water bath can this to make sure that it is shelf stable, you just need to process for 15 minutes for quarts and 25 for half gallon.

All of that being said, I cannot guarantee the safety of your food. If you follow this recipe, you do it at your own risk. I don’t know if you, your kitchen, or cooking utensils are clean/ sterile or how knowledgeable you are on canning. I have to say all of this because… lawyers.

Now, do you want the recipe for crunchy home canned dill pickles? Remember, you do this at your own risk because not only will you eat every single jar in one day, but you will also be *gasp* open kettle canning all of this.

pickling brine
Fresh canned dill pickles

What is open kettling?

Before we get started too far into the recipe, I’ve had a lot of people ask what is open kettle canning. Simply put, it is using HOT food in HOT jars with HOT liquid. For this example, we are using hot jars that have been sterilized and kept hot with hot water. We are using a boiling brine and clean/ fresh cukes. Since the jar is hot and sterile combined with the boiling brine which is highly acidic, you don’t have to process.

As a side note, you can also heat your jars in your oven once sterile. I will put my jars, lids and rings in the oven at about 250*. This reduces your risks of shattering and having to handle jars full of hot water.

The problem with home canned pickles and salsa specifically is that the veggies get turned to mush when they are heated for cooking and then heated again during the water bath. Even the most stout veggies are going to be mushy when you heat them too long. A cuke and tomato? Forget it. They will not stand up and you will end up with mushy pickles and soup for salsa.

The term open kettle was first found in 1914 as a form of home preservation, but stopped in the 1980’s. Many canners still use open kettle to preserve tons of foods. Some of us, myself included, only open kettle HIGHLY acidic foods. So the choice is yours, I choose to do research and figure things out on my own.

Home Canned Dill Pickles

5 from 3 votes
Open Kettled Homemade Dill Pickles
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Prep Time 2 hours hrs
Cook Time 0 minutes mins
Servings: 7 Quarts
Ingredients Equipment Method

Ingredients
  

  • 10 Cups Water
  • 2 Cups White Vinegar
  • 3/4 Cups Salt
  • 15ish Pickling cucumbers You can use any cukes just make sure that they are approx 6in long and not overripe
  • 7ish Tablespoons Diced Garlic
  • 7ish Bay Leaves
  • 7ish Tablespoons Dill Leaves You can use fresh dill at at least one medium sprig PER jar

Equipment

  • 1 15 qt Stock pot Larger if you are doubling or tripling recipe
  • 1 Ladle
  • 1 Whisk
  • 7 Qt Wide Mouth Mason Jars
  • 1 Debubbler
  • Can Grabber
  • Canning Funnel

Method
 

  1. Making Your Brine
  2. Add Water, vinegar and salt to stock pot and get it to boiling, stirring occasionally to dissolve salt
  3. Start working on Cucumbers
  4. Fill a bowl or sink with ICE COLD water
  5. Cut off both ends of cuke then slice for spears, chips, or whatever pickle you want
  6. Place in cold water as you get your jars ready
  7. Start heating your jars, lids and rings. You can do this by running your jars through a sterilizing cycle in your dishwasher, placing in your oven on 250 or in hot water. It doesn't really matter as long as they are clean and hot.
  8. **Please use a jar grabber, hot pad, or something, these jars are hot and the brine needs to stay boiling**
  9. Once your brine is boiling and ready, Take hot jar and add 1T garlic, 1T Dill (or sprig), 1 Bay leaf to the bottom
  10. Add your cukes, You are going to pack them in there so make sure to be careful
  11. Put your canning funnel on top and then ladle your HOT brine over cukes, leaving 1" head space.
  12. Wipe rim with vinegar towel, add lid and ring then set aside on a towel to start cooling
  13. Repeat until you are out of cukes or brine.
  14. Place a towel over all of the jars and listen for the pings over the next couple hours.
  15. Whatever doesn't ping, place in refrigerator. But give it a couple of days before you eat it so they are actually pickled.
  16. If you have left over brine, go ahead and fill any HOT jars you have. Same as above. Place funnel and ladle in brine
  17. Wipe rim, add lid and ring and set with the others to cool under a towel.

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What To Have On Hand During Kidding Season

October 12, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

If you have been on this blog for more than one article, you know how much we love our goats. Seriously, it’s ridiculous. But you may not have heard about the good, bad and ugly that is kidding season. If you have never owned livestock or even had a family pet give birth, you are absolutely not prepared for what is going to happen when your animal gives birth. Even after getting a birth or two under your belt, you’re probably STILL not prepared. And if you’ve got goats? Well, nothing will go as planned during kidding season.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Let’s Start Before Labor

If you know your goat is pregnant, or at least your pretty positive, there are somethings you should do prior to her giving birth. If you don’t have these things on hand, I highly recommend you go and get them quickly. You can buy all of this on amazon, or you can get it at your local feed store or Tractor Supply. All the links here will be for TSC because most everyone has one around somewhere.

  • Selenium– If you live in a selenium depleted area, which is almost the entire US, your brand new goat kid is probably deficient. However, if you have been supplementing with high quality minerals, this shouldn’t be a huge problem. We use these minerals and when kids are born, give them the selenium gel that is linked. The selenium will help boost the development of their muscles, brain and more.
  • Chlorohexidine or Iodine– So there is some debate about dipping umbilical cords. I am not here to set the record straight or to tell you what to do or buy. I am here to tell you what we do and why. Here’s the thing. In 2007 the DEA said no more to 7% iodine. I don’t know why, nor do I care. What I do know is that unless you have a source, you are not getting the 7% which is what is the best for dipping umbilical cords. You can read all about it here or do your own research (which I highly recommend). But the jist is this: trim the cord to about 2-3 inches so that it does not touch the ground and introduce bacteria and other nasties to your goat kid. Then dip the cord in either of the products I listed. Keep an eye on your kid and make sure that they are nursing and definitely got that colostrum.
  • Tums or CMPK– If labor has stalled or if your doe has milk fever, they need calcium. CMPK is what you should have on hand. But good luck finding it. Honestly, we start giving about 3-4 Tums, in the days leading up to labor and then continue to give them for a couple of days after. This to help keeps their calcium up. You do not have to by any means, but it is good to have on hand.
  • Ketone test strips- These can be found at your local pharmacy in the diabetic aisle. These will help you determine if you need to start treating for pregnancy toxemia. In order to keep it from happening in the first place, make sure you are feeding plenty of good quality hay and forage. If your doe is acting lethargic or otherwise off, try giving her a little molasse water and try to test her urine.
  • Lastly- Puppy pads, towels, exam gloves and lube. That’s really it.

I would also recommend watching as many videos on goat labor as possible. You can find Bella’s birth here. Maverick was a big boy and got stuck as he was coming out.

It’s Kidding Season!

Now, I’m pretty bougie with my goats. Unless my girls drop kids without me knowing (here’s looking at you, Bailey and Oakley), it’s a big production on my farm. I have a cheap 5 gallon bucket that has my iodine dip, towels, scissors, puppy pads, selenium and snacks for me. I will also make up some molasses water and bring them grain.

Bailey and Sébastien

At night, our does get put in the smaller area of our barn to make sure that they have privacy from the other goats. We also have an outdoor camera in there to check in on them without disturbing them. During the day, they have free reign over the two pastures.

When it’s time for them to labor, I try to get them into the barn. I won’t force the subject, but I do prefer to have them in a protected area. Also, I will usually just hang back and watch. I get my gloves and lube ready so if I need to go in I’m not fumbling around. Then we wait.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

Don’t Panic

The best thing you can do is not panic. I know it’s easier said than done, but seriously, don’t panic. Goats have been having kids for thousands of years. The chances that they or you are going to have a traumatic birth is slim. Unless you have a Bella, then all bets are off.

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Once you have decided that you are not panicking, lay your towels down and get ready. Some goats want all of your attention while in labor. Others don’t want you anywhere near them. Both are fine. I have had extremely friendly goats completely freak out on me and I’ve had total terrors turn into lovebugs during labor. The biggest thing is to keep calm and keep them calm. If that means you watch from a distance or stay snuggled in, do it.

Be On Standby

A solid 90% of goats do not require any assistance during labor. That means that you are simply on standby until you are needed. They will start pushing and grunting. If you can, look at their vulva and make sure they are making progress. They should have their kid within about 30 minutes of pushing. If not, start getting prepared to go in. You may have a stuck kid.

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Stuck Kid

If after 30 minutes of pushing, she has still not produced anything. Glove up and lube up, you’re going in. What you are checking for is that you have two hooves and a nose in the birth canal. If you don’t see or feel that, you need to get in there and find it. Out of the 10% of those times that you will need to assist, it’s usually either a big kid or the head is stuck back. You need to get your hand, and maybe arm in there and pull the head forward.

Remember to stay calm. When Champ went into labor, her first and last kids where stuck. I was able to get the first one out. Then Stella came. But the 3rd one was really stuck. I ended up phoning a friend to just talk to me and keep me calm. Unfortunately, Stella is the only kid that made it. That should not be the case with your stuck kids, but it does happen.

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You can read about Champ’s labor here and the resulting cuteness that is Stella.

The Kid Is Out, What Now?

The absolute first thing you do is move them out of the way IF mom is still pushing. Be careful of the umbilical cord. It will disconnect on it’s own after a few seconds of pushing. But YOU do not want to rip it.

If the kid is not breathing well, lift the kid up by their back legs and let them dangle. Gently swing them from side to side to help get any fluid that is still in their lungs, mouth and nose out.

Tractor Supply

If mom is a little busy or not immediately cleaning the kid, go ahead and start drying off the baby with a towel. With Champ, she had zero interest in her babies. I think part of it was that once she went into labor, everything was quick but she was also tired and her body condition wasn’t great.

After the kid is cleaned up, check the umbilical cord. If it has broken, make sure it is not profusely bleeding. A drop or two is fine, we are worried about massive bleeding here. Think about it this way. They are tiny, so they don’t have a ton of blood. If that blood is coming out, they don’t have much to circulate through their body. If the cord is still bleeding, pinch the cord with your fingers as hard as you can. We want to try and control the bleeding. Again, this is extremely rare and should not be a problem. Once it has stopped, you can let go and see if it start bleeding again. You can also tie off the cord with dental floss.

Dip the cord with the solution listed in your buy list above.

Bonus Tip: Sometimes, momma will not allow that solution to stay on. That is okay. Don’t panic. Bella will lick and bite off the cord if I do ANYTHING to it. Since she takes such good care of her babies, I’m not worried about it. To be honest, I don’t really dip anymore. I trim the cord to about 1-3inches and make sure they are in a clean and dry area. BUT you need to make that decision for yourself.

Tractor Supply

If mama is still pushing, let her do her thing. You can “bump” her to see if you feel another kid in there. Bumping is putting your arms under her, right in front of her udders, and pulling up sharply. You are checking to see if you feel anything hard. If so, she’s got another baby. If not, she’s passing the placenta next. It’s time to nurse if she only has one. Get her up and see if you can get the baby to nurse.

Nursing

Normally, you don’t need to help. Momma should make this happen on her own. But if you have a first time mom, or maybe a not so great momma, you could need to help the kid out.

To do this, get mama up and place the baby with it’s head towards the udders. This may take a time or two to make sure that it latches but try. If the baby or mama refuses, try again in a few minutes. Rinse and repeat. Kids need that colostrum within the first hour or two.

After the kid has nursed, I will usually get a weight on it. This helps to make sure that they are gaining weight in the coming days. If the kid is not gaining, you may have to pull the kid and start bottle feeding it.

How much weight should the kid gain? Well, that’s a question with no real answer. As long as the kid is gaining weight, is alert and being a kid, it is fine. If for any reason the kid is not gaining weight, alert or being a kid, then I would get involved.

Closing

I hope this has helped you prepare for your goat to go into labor. It can be daunting and scary. But don’t let that stop you. It is awesome to see the birth and the maternal instinct of these creatures. Plus it is heart melting to hear those first cries and mama perk up.

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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Why You Need The Herd Health Sheets

October 8, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

I posted before about how goats are not beginner livestock. I’ve also posted about the basics you need to care for your goats. But how do you keep track of all of the things that you’ve done, need to do, or want to do? I have tried many different ways of trying to keep track of who has gotten what meds, who was breed by who, and who needs vaccines or boosters. But my herd health sheets have been fantastic over the last several years and I wanted to share them with you.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

Why You Need Herd Health Sheets

Unlike other livestock, goats can be pretty fragile creatures that require constant care and maintenance. If you don’t know who is who, or maybe forget that you dewormed your milk goat, you can have some pretty serious problems. If you are using your memory to remember who got what and when, you will have problems at some point.

Here Are Some Reasons To Use Herd Health Sheets

If you are breeding your goats for milk, you need to know who bred them around what time. Then you need to know if they have had any issues with milking in the past, how often they have had to be dewormed, how many kids they throw, and if they have any contagious diseases.

Another reason to help keep track is breeding. We decided to keep Champ’s kid Stella. We CAN breed Stella back to her father but that’s not an awesome idea. Also, by knowing that Champ hates being milked, we know that we need to work with Stella a lot on the milking stand.

goat kid in the house with black dog sniffing it

We also had an issue with Orf’s within the first few months of having Bella, Champ, Midas and Texas. So by keeping track of who had it, it helps keep us updated on who is likely to get it.

Obviously, if you only have two goats, you can probably remember these things. But we have more than two and will definitely have even more. Not to mention that we plan on breeding goats for a long time. It would be nice to be able to go back at a glance and see who has been healthy and who hasn’t. I am working towards breeding healthier genetics with less need for worming

Who Needs Herd Sheets

If you have livestock that you need to do treatments to or have on a breeding schedule, I would say that you need these herd sheets. Sure, if you only have one bull, buck, rooster, whatever, you probably don’t need the breeding part for them. But I’ve got two bucks and I do need to be careful about who gets bred to who. Midas can breed everyone but Stella. Spike can breed anyone this year. But I want to wait until the girls are at least eight months old.

While I can go down the rabbit hole of all the technicalities of this, I think it’s safe to say that it’s better to have all this information in one spot. If I’m having to flip pages or do mental gymnastics, someone could get left out and that is dangerous when dealing with creatures that are not so great at keeping themselves alive.

Sheets In Use

The first video is Champ’s sheet and the second is the actual product and how to use it.

Its important to note, on Champ’s sheet, that before I created these sheets, I totally missed documenting fecals and other medications that were given. That can be life threatening when dealing with worms. Here in the south, worms are lethal. Sure, you can have a strong herd that rarely needs deworming. But we aren’t there yet. You can see at the bottom, that the last entry she was dewormed because the strongyles came back with a vengeance. Not to mention that her FAMACHA was a 4.

This sheet also helps keep me aware of weight loss, FAMACHA trends, and so on.

This is a brand new sheet and how to set it up.

Where To Get These Sheets?

You can find them on our store as a digital download. The PDF is for the Google Sheet link and they are super easy to fill out. The best thing to do is to make a copy of the first page, by right clicking and then click duplicate. Then rename the copy to your goat name. After that you can remove the information on there and replace it with your own.

I hope this sheet will help you as they have helped me. I strongly suggest either creating your own or picking up ours.

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My name is Leigh and I am the lead chaos creator here at Steel Raven Farms. You will see throughout this blog that I am the crazy goat lady.

I am married to my high school sweetheart, Jared and we have two amazing boys.

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In all the years that I’ve been growing a garden, the fall garden has steadily remained my favorite. Which is funny because I don’t really like any of the brassicas, which is what most people know the fall garden for. I prefer the root vegetables and cool air. But I have learned over the years…

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