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Goats

What to Plant in Your Vegetable Garden

July 30, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

If you are new to gardening or homesteading, and you’ve been breaking your brain trying to figure out what to plant in your vegetable garden, allow me to help you! The main things I look at when planning a garden is what do I want to eat, how much space do I have, and leave room for experimenting.

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What To Plant In Your Gardens

Through the years, various gardens and designs, I have figured out a few things about gardening. The first is to always give more space to fruits and vegetables that you know you like. Next, is to figure out how much space I am willing to give to the stuff I like, but also the things I want to try. Finally, what do I want to try and grow.

I found Southern Dreams Homestead to have a great article for beginners and their gardens. They have a ton of great information and it’s really helpful if you don’t know what you’re doing. Learning and Yearning also has a great article about getting started with organic gardening.

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What fruits and vegetables do you like?

This is a very serious question that people usually get tripped up on. I despise raw tomatoes. I do not want it anywhere near my hamburger or salad. BUT I absolutely love salsa, ketchup, BBQ sauce, and more. That means I should probably not plant a ton of slicing tomatoes and plant more sauce or paste tomatoes. While, yes, Jared loves to eat raw tomatoes, he is the only one. So it doesn’t make a lot of sense to plant an entire row of slicers just for him. 

To figure out what to plant in your garden, I would sit down and really think about all the fruits and vegetables you like to eat. Then, I would think about all the cooked versions of those foods you like. Do you like pasta sauce? That’s tomatoes, peppers, onion, garlic, basil, oregano, etc. If you have the space in your garden to grow those things. Then do it!

Another thing to consider is your animals. If you have chickens or goats, you can absolutely grow extra squash for them. As you are figuring out what to plant, also think about all the things you can grow to help off set your feed bills.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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How Much to Plant?

Again this one is pretty simple, it comes down to space and what you like. Going back to my tomato example, out of the four of us, Jared is the only one that likes raw tomatoes. I’m not going to take up an entire row of space for slicers. But what I will do is plant a couple slicers and grape tomatoes so that he has something to snack on. The majority of my tomato space will be taken up with beefsteak or slicers.

But how much to plant? This is a varying formula that takes time to dial in. The best way to do this is to figure out how much each plant should produce and then figure out how much you need. As you grow, you will adjust how much you eat/ use but to start figure out how much you think you’ll eat and how much each plant should grow. Below is a how to become a victim of tomato math.

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What is tomato math?

Well, it’s the same as chicken and goat math. If I need two eggs a day for breakfast, I need at least ten chickens. That is chicken math. No, it doesn’t make any sense which is the point. Goat math is a little different because you start with two and then end up with nine and I’m still not really sure how that happened.

Tomato math is simply thinking that 25 plants is not nearly enough to sustain my family’s tomato needs and you end up with 150 plants and a ton of tomatoes. Not to mention trying to figure out what your going to do with 1,2000+ pounds of tomatoes.

The best way to figure out how much you need to plant is simple.

Figure out what the average yield for the type of plant: tomatoes are 8-10# per plant, peas are about 30 plants per person, potatoes are 5-10# per plant and so on. Then figure out how many pounds you need. I know we will go through about 100# per person for potatoes per year for cubed, shredded, whole, and fries. So I need 400#.

Then divide the number of pounds the plant yields to the number pounds you need;

Potatoes- 400/5=80 potato plants.

If you don’t know how many pounds you need, estimate and write down what you planted. When you harvest, write down the weight. Keep an eye on how much you are using and when it’s gone, figure up how many days until your next harvest. This is where garden journals are absolutely necessary!

Our herd health bundle helps you keep track of your herd’s health. Includes the goat assessment, herd check sheets AND Herd Health Tracker!

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Experimenting With Your Garden

A lot of times, people only grow what they will eat. And that’s great if you are limited on space. But you are missing out on whole other varieties! I did a podcast about trying different varieties here. We didn’t know that we liked cabbage until we had it, same with broccoli, winter squash, radishes, etc.

Don’t be afraid to give some space to other plants in your garden. If you don’t like them, I’m sure your chickens will love them.

Are you getting overwhelmed in the garden? Stressed? Or just not enjoying the garden like you used to? Check out our garden prompts! We send out weekly emails that get you back in the garden and out of your head! Turn the garden back into a place of love and joy instead of frustration and headache!

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Try not to get overwhelmed

I know that is way easier said than done. At the end of the day, even planting one tomato plant is better than doing nothing at all. So don’t sweat it, just get out there and start digging in the dirt and enjoy the wonder of growing your own food.

If you decide to start seeds instead of buying plants, which I highly recommend, The Homesteading RD has a great guide for starting pepper plants. Since my own pepper starts didn’t do so well, I will be using some of these tips next year.

You can start big or small, it’s totally up to you. What you need to remember is that just by planting something you are doing something to decrease your dependency on the grocery store. It doesn’t matter that you didn’t harvest thousands of pounds of food. The reality is that you tried.

If your garden doesn’t produce a ton like you wanted it to, try again. I found these articles helpful for fall planting or just helping your soil through fall. Though Georgia doesn’t have much of a fall, more of a HOT, not so hot, freezing, hot…. you get the picture.

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Other Helpful Tips and Tricks

Over at Vintage Homestead, you can figure out how to take a soil samples. This is great for figuring out if you need extra nitrogen, fertilizer, or other materials added to your garden. Once you’ve taken your samples and have your results you can head over to Learning and Yearning to figure out how to add materials to your soil naturally.

If you’re anything like me and you want to know which plants like rhubarb and help them, head over to The Homesteading RD to take a look at what they have to say.

I am guilty of wanting to mulch everything in the garden and Learning and Yearning has a great article on how to avoid those pitfalls that comes with it.

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Filed Under: Animals, Canning, Chickens, Garden, Goats, How To's, Pigs, Projects Tagged With: cooking, Homestead, Organic, Plants

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Is My Goat In Labor?

July 16, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

I have been a paramedic long enough to know that nothing ever happens when we WANT it to or are waiting for it. I also know that baby is coming when it wants to, not when the goat or I do. Until then, I can only take the things I have learned into account. But like any mammal, if you have to ask, is my goat in labor? They’re probably not “pooping out a baby” as my youngest once said. If you’ve got some of these signs and symptoms, and something important planned off farm? You may have a goat in labor.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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My Ways Of Telling If My Goat Is In Labor

As the years have progressed and I’ve gotten more comfortable with goat kidding, there is a lot more that I have learned and I wanted to pass that along to you. It is incredibly rare that your very first kidding will result in 2 stillborn babies like Champ’s first kidding. In fact, I would say that you will probably find a baby hanging out with mom before you ever realize that she was in labor.

Due to the nature of my full time job, I am home a lot more someone who works full time and homesteads. So I have had the pleasure of watching most of my girls labor and successfully kid. There have been a few glitches in the matrix but for the most part, it’s been normal. But I wanted to address some other concerns that I wish I had known prior to dealing with those glitches.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Is She Pregnant?

This is the first question that needs to be asked. Is there ANY way that she could have gotten pregnant? If you don’t have a buck on site, then she probably isn’t pregnant and just has great body condition. But stranger things have happened.

A couple years ago, we didn’t even know our girls were pregnant. The vet came out towards the end of November and told us they weren’t pregnant based on ultrasound. Color all of us surprised when, towards the end of February both Bella and Champ suddenly had big ole belly’s AND a positive pooch test. In fact, we don’t usually know that are girls are successfully bred until we feel the kids moving.

Our herd health bundle helps you keep track of your herd’s health. Includes the goat assessment, herd check sheets AND Herd Health Tracker!

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Kid Moving

When babies start moving and kicking, you usually have about a month or so before they are born. This is usually the first indicator that your doe is pregnant if you choose not to do blood tests or ultrasounds. You should feel this on the right side of their abdomen just past their ribs, her right side, not yours. At first it may feel like the rumen moving, but as time progresses you will feel a hoof, shoulder, or head.

When do you decide you need to start checking for movement? If your buck lives with your girls 24/7, then I would look at the pooch test. If not, you can start checking around month 3-4 from the time you think they got bred. You should feel the baby moving but don’t panic if you don’t. Like human babies, the goat kids will sleep or just not move around a lot. I will jiggle their belly and see if I can “wake up” the baby and get it moving. Of course the girls hate it, but oh well.

I also notice that as the babies get closer to delivery, they don’t move as much. To the point were I was second guessing myself on whether they were pregnant or not.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Bagging Up And Vulva Swelling

As your doe progresses through her pregnancy, and you are coming up to the end, you will notice teat and udder development. This will look different for every single doe and every single pregnancy. Sometimes they don’t “bag up” until right before labor or right after. But the big thing to watch for is the development. Especially for first time fresheners (first time mommas).

Another thing that you will notice is that her vulva will start to swell and get pretty saggy looking. This is very progressive and will usually happen over the last few weeks. I take pictures of the back end of my goat to track progress. I pity the person who goes through my camera roll.

Our herd health bundle helps you keep track of your herd’s health. Includes the goat assessment, herd check sheets AND Herd Health Tracker!

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Ligaments

One of the best ways to tell if your doe is getting close to laboring is to check their tail ligaments. But I don’t think it is a sign that is well explained, especially for first time owners. I am religious about checking ligaments once I feel the babies moving. I do this, even knowing I have a month or 2 until labor because I want to be able to track changes.

Now, I have had laboring goats on my farm for a couple years and it wasn’t until this summer, when Stella had her twins that I figured out what loose ligaments were actually supposed to feel like right before kidding. When people tell you that the ligaments will be soft and squishy 12-24 hours before labor. It should feel like someone stuffed a water balloon in her pelvis, right at her tail and hips.

As your goat progresses through pregnancy, you should start checking her tail webbing so you can get an idea of what it’s supposed to feel like. Telling you how to do with in writing is pretty difficult but you can YouTube how to check goat ligaments and a million videos will pop up. But again, without seeing/feeling it first hand, it’s incredibly difficult to explain.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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False Labor

You will be tricked into thinking your goat is in labor pretty often. It happens to the best of us. I did a TikTok about Bella being in labor…. She wasn’t. That’s okay. But goats will have braxton hicks, false labor, or even start pushing and there’s nothing there. I wish I could say you’ll know the difference, and you will, once that baby hits the ground.

Discharge

This one is usually a last sign right before labor. It is entirely possible that you will see a “slime trail” as we call it and next thing you see is a bulging water sack and feet coming. Other times you may see her discharging for days before giving birth.

This is another sign that you may never see. In my experience, once you see the slime trail, she is in labor. None of my girls have ever had a slime trail more than a few hours before labor.

Other Ways To Tell Your Goat Is In Labor

These are all antidotal but they are worth mentioning if you know your doe is close to labor.

She may paw at the ground a lot. Not all of my girls do this, in fact most didn’t. But Bella is a digger and you can tell that she’s very uncomfortable. But she doesn’t do it because she’s in labor… if that makes any sense.

She may yawn…. a lot. This is coined the silent scream because they are not actually yawning. You will know when you see it that labor is approaching or occurring right now.

Another thing to look for is your doe constantly getting up and down. Much like pregnant women, they are so uncomfortable that they are constantly shifting and moving. Plus, there is an elbow, hoof, head or 3 of them shoved into this tiny space. It’s got to be uncomfortable.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Get Ready

Start getting your supplies ready for when your goat is in labor. I have a 5 gallon bucket that has shears, exam gloves, puppy pads and more ready to go. This helps because I can have one of the kids go grab it and not individual things.

Be ready to pull kids if they are stuck or momma is tired. Be ready to milk out momma if a kid isn’t doing well or if momma rejects it.

But most importantly? Be ready for the most amazing and adorable thing you have ever seen.

You can see Bella’s most recent birth by clicking this link. It’s to our YouTube channel and it’s pretty graphic.

Champ and Stella

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How To Care For Goats

July 13, 2024 by Leigh 6 Comments

So you’re thinking about getting a goat. You’re doing your research and probably thinking, “Whoa, there’s a lot to learn.” You would be right, but don’t let that stop you. Just by having some basic supplies on hand and a willingness to learn, puts you ahead of the game. Learning how to care for goats is actually pretty simple with the right supplies, resources and attitude. It would be impossible to write one post about caring for goats. It’s simply too much. But this post is a good start and below you can find our goat crash course.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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How To Care For Goats

When we first started looking into goats, I was extremely hesitant. I knew from research that they were a ton of work and hard to keep alive, but I didn’t realize how much more there was to learn. I have learned a ton in the years that I’ve been raising and managing goats. From caring for hooves to goat assessments, what medicines to keep on hand, and what goats can eat, the opportunities for education and adventure is never ending with goats.

Our herd health bundle helps you keep track of your herd’s health. Includes the goat assessment, herd check sheets AND Herd Health Tracker!

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Medications to keep on hand

This is by no means a comprehensive list or replacement for veterinarian advise or treatment.

Vitamin B Complex is another necessity. When your goat isn’t acting 100%, sometimes it’s simple vitamin deficiency. Other times, their entire system is out of whack and you need to start working to get them back on track. The real need with the B complex is actually the thiamine in it. Goats will usually make their own but when their rumen is out of whack, they can get really sick. If you can get your hands on thiamine from the vet, I highly suggest that you get some.

LA200, Tylan 200 or similar antibiotic. Sometimes your goat will have a cough, gunky eyes or nose, or other infection. Having antibiotics on hand helps save you from a vet visit. As of this revision, you need a vet to get antibiotics. If you have a good relationship with your regular vet, they may be able to help you when it comes to your livestock.

Dewormers- now I could go in depth about the various types of dewormers. Both chemical and natural. But I’m not going to. The reason is because there are so many different types of parasites and treatment protocols for them, it would make this blog post insanely long. What I will say is talk to the person you are getting your goats from and see what they are giving their animals. That will point you in the right direction for care. I do talk in depth about deworming goats here if you are interested in it.

BluKote– This amazing can of awesome has literally saved our goat’s lives. I was told by a farmer once that BluKote is so good, it will regrow legs. And while obviously, that’s not true, it will help keep the leg from rotting off. It’s an antifungal, kind of antibacterial and quick drying agent. Stella got tangled up in sheet metal and sliced up all four legs in various spots. Some deep enough to need sutures. But have you ever tried to suture a goat? We sprayed this on her, kept her contained for a few days and within about 6 hours she had scabs and within about 2 days she was almost completely healed. So no, it won’t regrow legs. But it does protect the ones they have.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Supplies to have on hand to care for goats

A thermometer is number one for a reason. Goats must stay around 101-103. This tells you a lot about what you could be dealing with. Too cold and you need to start actively rewarming them. Too warm and you may have an infection.

Syringes and Needles– Having a variety of different syringes is huge. I’ve got goats that range from 5# to 100# so having everything from 3cc-60cc syringes is extremely helpful. Also make sure that whatever size you get they are Luer Lock! Seriously, you do not want to be sprayed in the face with an antibiotic because the pressure shot off the needle. Yes, it’s happened. With needles, I highly recommend getting 20 ga or 18 ga. Anything smaller than 20 gauge and you will have a really hard time getting medication into a squirming goat. We use 18ga as a rule but we have 20s as well.

Free choice baking soda is a mineral that goats will eat to help soothe their stomach. Goats can bloat or become acidotic and baking soda can help them help themselves.

Free choice minerals is very important in making sure that they have ample minerals that your area may be deficient in. We use these as the goats love them. *** As of this revision (6/24) we use the goat mineral buffet from Avalon Farms and our goats love it. We have seen huge improvements in their health and coats. If you can’t get this or don’t have the “right set up” regular free choice is fine.

All the buckets. When you think you have enough, grab a couple more. We use a 5gal buckets for water and 3gal buckets for feeding. I attach the feed buckets to the fence with strong clips so they have plenty of space for everyone to have something. I also hang a couple of these on the fences to give even more options. It really helps to keep everyone from crowding on each other.

As long as you have plenty of ruffage, you shouldn’t need a lot of feed for them. Bucks, male goats, don’t get grain or at least not a lot. We fed our goats off the land for the first year to help get everything clear. Now we are bringing in pellets and grains to help supplement the hay until our pastures take hold. But really we could put them back in the briars and they would be very happy.

Hoof Trimmers– A couple pairs of hoof trimmers are great. Even better if you can take them apart to sharpen them. We’ve got probably 5 or so pairs around the farm. I like to have extras just in case one set is dull or we need to clean them while trimming hooves.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

Other Resources

I would also recommend getting into a couple of different goat groups on Facebook. Most vets do not see livestock and if they do see livestock, they are probably not well versed in goats. That being said, these different groups on Facebook are people with years and years of experience. I have trusted them with my babies on multiple occasions and they have helped me pull my goats through when a vet was clueless. Successful Goating With Rosie and Goat Emergency Team are the two that I recommend.

Lastly, enjoy your goats. Seriously, they are some of the coolest critters and I am so glad that Jared talked me into getting them. When I am stressed to the max with work, the kids, or anything, I go out and sit with my babies. They make all of it go away. How can Midas’ antics not put a smile on your face?

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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Breeding Goats Without A Buck

June 29, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

I’m sure you’ve heard the horror stories of keeping a buck on the property with your does. You’ve probably heard that they stink to high heaven. Or that they will breed through fences… or say what fence. I’ve kept bucks since the beginning of our goating journey and while I don’t mind them, I can totally understand why people wouldn’t want to keep a buck. But if you are looking to breed for milk or meat or for whatever reason you decide, how do you go about breeding goats without a buck?

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Breeding Goats Without A Buck

First and foremost, breeding goats without a buck will not happen. You absolutely can’t do it. Basic biology says that you have to have sperm and an egg to make a fetus. BUT if you are not wanting to house bucks on your property long term, you do have some options. The 3 big ones are driveway breeding, seasonal bucks, or stud rentals….

Before we get into those ways of breeding without a buck, first I want to touch on why some people may not want a buck full time. I’ll tell you our experience with keep bucks full time so you can get a more rounded picture.

Why Not Keep A Buck Full Time

There are a lot of reasons not to keep a buck on your property full time. The first would be feeding. Bucks can consume a TON of food. And considering that for most farms or homesteads, they only have one purpose, to breed. So keeping around a buck that is going to eat a lot but only reproduce? That’s a tall order.

Another reason people don’t want to keep bucks is because they stink. Now, they only really stink during rut, but rut can last a long time. Rut is when bucks will fight other males, pee on their faces, and be a general nuisance.

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Fence jumping or fence breeding is another big concern with keeping bucks full time. We have had several very stubborn does that were going to get their man when they came in heat. Short of tethering those does, they were going to get bred through the fence. However, it was not uncommon for the bucks to jump fences to get to the girls.

Now that we’ve covered why not to have bucks, let’s talk about ways to breed without keeping a buck full time.

Our herd health bundle helps you keep track of your herd’s health. Includes the goat assessment, herd check sheets AND Herd Health Tracker!

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Driveway Breeding

This option is exactly what it sounds like. You contact someone like me, who offers stud services, and tell them that you would like to use their buck to your does. This can be done in one of two ways. You bring your girls to the stud and let them do their thing in the driveway. Or they come to your does. Either way, the goal is the same, the hook up happens in the driveway.

There are some drawbacks to this option. The first is that if you missed your does heat cycle, you waste everyone’s time and stress the goats. The second is that if it doesn’t take, you have to do it again. Finally, trying to line up schedules to make sure that the goats get together at the right time can be a pain.

However, there are some pros to this style of stud service. Things like having full control over when babies are born, exactly what genetics you are adding to your herd, and not having the added expense and chores of a separated buck.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Seasonal Bucks

Another great option, and the one most similar to what we use, is seasonal bucks. This is when you purchase a buck for the season and then either sell him at the end of your season or send him to freezer camp. I like this option the best because you don’t have to worry about trying to keep someone else’s buck alive for the season. This is your buck, not someone else’s.

Another reason why this is a good option is because you don’t have to keep a buddy for him. Remember, I told you here that goats are herd animals. That means that if you keep a buck full time and don’t keep your herd together at all times, you will have to have a wether for your buck to keep him company. But if you buy a buck in September for breeding spring and fall babies, and butcher in November, you don’t have to keep a wether.

The downside to this is the expense of purchasing a buck every year and then figuring out what to do with them afterwards. Especially, if you aren’t interested in sending it to freezer camp. I’ll tell you right now, it is extremely hard to sell bucks.

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Stud Rentals

This is something that we have done a few times with our bucks with mix results. Basically, you would contact your local goat or livestock group and ask if anyone rents out their bucks. You would select your buck, set terms like amount of time the buck will be at your homestead, any testing you would like done or have results for, and how much your willing to pay.

It’s not uncommon for stud rentals to be about $100/mo depending on what you are looking for. A show quality buck with all biosecurity testing could be upwards of $500/mo depending on your area. A registered buck could be a couple hundred. It really depends. Also, there is usually a contract of some sort that says if you break it, you buy it. Which is totally fair.

I think this could be the most bang for your buck if you know that you can’t send the buck to the freezer at the end of the season.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Our Experience With Keeping Bucks

We have kept bucks full time from day one. I didn’t want the added expense and headache of trying to find stud services and constantly switch out bucks. There are some things of note that we have found work well for us.

We leap frog our bucks, getting a new one every year and sending the 2 or 3 year old buck to the freezer. Midas will be going to the butcher in November (2024) because he has fathered too many of our retained does. Maverick is our next herd sire, he will be allowed to hang with Midas and learn the ropes before it’s “his turn”. Then during kidding season (Early 2025), we will pick another buckling to be the following year’s herd sire. Maverick will have until November 2026 before he goes to freezer camp.

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Letting Bucks Be Bucks

Another thing we have found is that when we allow a buck to stay with his girls, he isn’t solely focused on breeding. In fact, he becomes a herd protector and has ran off coyotes and other predators. Is it full proof? No. But allowing animals to follow their natural instincts is amazing to watch.

We have found that if we keep our bucks separate from the girls, they are far stinky-er than if just leave them with the girls. So we will let the buck stay with his group of girls 24/7 and he doesn’t need to compete with the other bucks. However, they will absolutely pee all over themselves and get rowdy. But it’s not nearly as bad as when we have separated them.

I enjoy having the ease of keeping bucks on the farm. We will always have bucks here, especially because they will keep the girls in check and protected. That’s a win in my book.

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Traveling When You Homestead

June 22, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

As I sit here writing this, I am supposed to be packing, cleaning and getting ready to hit the road in two days. We are going out of town for the Homesteaders Of America Conference in Virginia this weekend. Instead of packing and getting last minute chores done, I sit here thinking about all the things I need to do, but I am obviously not doing… Thanks ADD. But all of this did get me thinking that brand new homesteaders may be struggling with the logistics of traveling when you homestead.

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Traveling When You Homestead

When most people travel, they have to find someone to watch their dogs, cats, maybe a snake or lizard. Usually, it is not a big deal. But when you have gardens that need to be harvested, animals that need to be fed and watered, medications to be given, sometimes finding someone is extremely difficult.

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I’m not going to lie, traveling when you homestead can be a logistical nightmare. It’s not as easy as it was pre homestead. But your days of traveling aren’t over, they just look a little different now. Some homesteaders rarely leave their property. Others will only travel a certain distance away. Still others will globe trot in the winter. There is no right or wrong answer to traveling and homesteading. It’s all about logistics.

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Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Our Travels

Pre-homestead, we just needed to find someone that could either stay at the house with our four dogs, two cats and three bearded dragons or at least let dogs out to go to the bathroom and feed them. Heading out for a quick overnight or weekend trip was as simple as calling one of Jared’s buddies from the fire department to have them do a drive by the house and let the dogs out. Rarely was it a big deal.

Post- homestead? There’s a lot more.

The first time we went out of town, we went to Yellowstone for a week. One of my friends from work was willing to stay the week and hang out with the animals. She had a crash course in goats and we prefilled their foods, medications and anything else we could to make her life easier. She did fantastic and I am extremely grateful for her.

The second trip is to Virginia for the conference. We were lucky that our neighbor is willing to help us out since he will be home all weekend. But how do you travel when you are knee deep in kidding season, or canning season?

Below is how I get prepared to leave the homestead for a few days.

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Getting A Farm Sitter

The first thing to do is to line up your farm sitter for your trip. If you’ve got friends or family that is willing to help out, all the better. But if not, check with your local 4-H or FFA. There are a ton of kids that are well versed in farming and would love to make some money. You could also get in touch with your local feed store and see if they know of anyone that would be willing to come out and help.

There are a ton of people out there that are willing to help out if the pay is right. There is no set rate for this, either. Some people who only have a few chickens and need someone to harvest the garden is going to charge less than someone you load chores on.

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Have your farm sitter come out to the farm to go over everything with you. I leave a typed list of all the things that need to be done in order of animals. So goats have their own list, dogs, chickens, etc.

If you have a friend coming over and they know nothing about feeding animals, go ahead and pre-fill buckets or jars with feed, so all they have to do is dump and go.

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Clean Up Before You Go

This isn’t just cleaning your house. It’s mucking out the stalls, barns and coops and laying fresh bedding. Move chicken tractors, electric netting, etc. so that they don’t have to mess with it. It’s fresh sheets on the bed if they are spending the night. Make sure that they do not have to do that stuff while your gone.

When we leave, we make sure that the only thing they have to do is feed and water animals, let out dogs, and collect eggs.

Harvesting The Garden

First, let me just say this, planning a vacation in July/ August, is not the best possible scenario. Can it be done? Absolutely. But if there is a choice, maybe not go during peak harvest time.

If you are in mid swing with canning and harvesting the garden, life just got a little harder. But it’s still not impossible. When we went to Yellowstone, we told my friend, you can keep anything the garden produces and any eggs the hens lay. If you don’t want it, throw it to the chickens.

But if it’s the middle of August and you are harvesting the garden every day, that’s a lot of produce to “lose”. Here are some quick tips:

The farm sitter can have anything the garden produces.

Peppers can be frozen, tomatoes too.

Cucumbers and summer squash can go to the goats, chickens and pigs.

Watermelons can stay on the vine for a few days extra.

Look into other ways your produce can be saved until you get back and have your farm sitter do that.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Other Random Chores

Sometimes you have to leave and you have a goat in milk. Or sometimes you had an accidental breeding and now you are going on vacation when your favorite doe is going to kid. You’ve got eggs in the incubator or you’ve got chicks in the brooder. Maybe you have a last minute trip and need to butcher chickens. Or you have a sick animal that needs medications.

All of these things happen. A good farm sitter is invaluable. In theory, you should find someone that is comfortable doing all of those things. The reality is Prior Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance. That’s not to say that anyone is at fault, quite the opposite. If you can plan around your vacation, and prepare your farm sitter, everything will be fine.

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In the situation of a goat in milk, see if your farm sitter is comfortable milking. If not, try drying her up before you leave. If that won’t work, think about putting her baby back with her while you’re gone. Another option is to see if you have a goat friend that would be willing to keep her while you’re gone.

Prepare

The best thing you can do when you are preparing for travel is to be as prepared as possible. Our vet has our credit card on file so that if anything happens, we are good to go. We have lists for the farm sitter. Our neighbors are willing to help out and, not only do they have knowledge of animals but have actually met our animals.

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Having a good infrastructure in place is also key to making sure that you are good to go. Setting up your farm to be automated, like automatic waterers for the garden and animals, helps tremendously.

Enjoy

Lastly, enjoy your trip! Seriously, you have probably earned it. Especially in the fall/ winter when everything is buttoned up for the season and it’s time to relax and plan for spring.

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What I Learned During My First Goat Kidding

June 4, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

******Contains graphic images!!******

Imagine being pregnant with your first child or your partner is. You are worried about the labor and everything is a sign that labor is imminent. That twinge in the back? Must be labor. If you have ever been in labor, and now you are watching for your goat to be in labor, it is completely different. Welcome to the “other side” were you are now a spectator and hopefully not a participant. The unbelievable experience of watching your first goat kidding is amazing, terrifying and one of the coolest experiences.

goat kidding
goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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My First Goat Kidding

We started baby watch with Champ on March 21st. I started my checks earlier because I had no idea what I was doing or looking for. Checking ligaments became a multiple times a day thing. Taking a peak to see if any discharge was showing up. I called the vet who explained all the different things that need to happen in the weeks leading up to birthing, including not eating. Two weeks of stressing about my best girl and she was finally in labor!

She’s in labor!!

I texted our breeder because she’s been waiting just as much as I have and got together all my stuff. Now, I’m pretty extra when it comes to my babies. They get everything I can possibly give them when they are in situations like this. I grabbed molasses water to help with her energy levels. She had fresh grain and alfalfa pellets, and hay. I also had tons of towels, puppy pads and other stuff just in case.

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The Kidding

The first baby’s front and back leg came out. I had to attempt to reposition and by the time she came out she was stillborn. The second baby was Stella, and she came out perfect. I had to help just a little bit and then dry her off. The third baby was one hoof, then the 2nd but the head was back. I fought for 20 minutes trying to reposition this baby to get her out and just couldn’t.

I tried resuscitating the first and third babies but they were too far gone. It was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done as a homesteader. As much as I wanted those babies to live, it was probably better for Champ that they didn’t. We would have had to pull at least one to raise as a bottle baby and she would never had produced enough milk for them.

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In the end, we had three gorgeous doelings but Stella was the only one to live. We think that when our other goat Bella, rammed and then rolled Champ it moved the babies and started her labor early. But we will never know.

Stella is great and has been gaining weight like a champ. Champ has also been gaining a ton of weight which is fantastic because we were really worried about her. Her milk has come in and she really is a good momma.

So What Did I Learn About Goat Kidding?

  • More towels are always better. Seriously, I used 10 towels for three babies…..
  • Puppy pads are great if they doe actually stays on them.
  • Get a pull chain. My fingers are too big for both my fingers and the baby’s head to come through the birth canal.
  • Don’t panic. It will ultimately be okay, even if it doesn’t seem like it.
  • Watch ALL the difficult kidding videos. It could save your doe and kids life.
  • Not all labors go the same. The vet said she would stop eating and she ate between pushing.
  • Discharge may not start until just before labor and not 12-24hrs in advanced. Try like two hours.

But I wouldn’t change a bit of it. I love my goats and Champ and Stella are the best girls!

Future Goat Kidding

I could go in depth about the various times that my girls have gone into labor. If you are interested in how to tell if your goat is in labor, I have a post here that could help. I could tell you all the things I think you need when during your goat kidding. But the reality is that it’s not going to help a lot when your in the trenches. The biggest take away is to stay calm and be ready to intervene. That’s how I have gotten through the years of goats being born on the farm.

But I’ve also got some tips to help you BEFORE your doe kids. I call them safe breeding techniques.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Safe Breeding Techniques

One of the things I come back to, year after year, is that livestock (for the most part) don’t need help laboring IF you practice safe breeding techniques. Things like matching your buck to doe and not breeding young does. These are very important and while normally it’s okay, sometimes it’s not.

For example, breeding a full size Nubian buck to a small Nigerian doe is going to cause a problem. This is going to cause the kid/s to be WAY too big for the doe to successfully push out. Can they do it? Sure, it happens. But the risk isn’t worth the reward.

Another example is not breeding too young does. This comes down to a lot of factors and your own philosophies. I do not intentionally breed does that are younger than 1 year old or below 80% of their full weight/size. I say intentionally because fence breeding can and does happen. When it does, you need to either be ready to terminate the pregnancy or prepare for a c section.

We have been very lucky that our bucks are happy to not go after our does even in the height of rut as long as we keep everyone fed and entertained. We’ve had a couple fence breedings though so it’s not foolproof. Thankfully, it was due to a horny nanny goat and not because of a jumped fence.

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Practicing Safe Breeding Techniques PRIOR

When you are starting to purchase your herd, make sure that you are paying attention to what you are buying. I’ve said it before, and I will say it again and again, livestock are not pets. While most of us have a soft spot for our animals (no matter if they are hooved, clawed, feathered or furred), when you are purchasing livestock, don’t just purchase to purchase.

This means that if you are breeding for milk, you purchase strong milk lines. If you are breeding for meat, you purchase strong meat lines. Don’t just purchase goats and expect them to be great milkers or for meat.

Purchasing goats from auction can almost guarantee that those goats are, at best not what you are looking for and at worse not healthy (there are exceptions to the rule). Your heart got in the way of your head and now you have a goat that can’t live without constant care. That’s what we had with Champ.

My best piece of advise for new goat owners is to set out your goals for those goats and only get goats that fit within those goals. I’m not saying don’t save that goat, I’m saying if your goal is to have milk, don’t purchase goats that can’t meet your needs.

For example, we are currently working on building our own homesteading lines. The goal is goats that are hardy and can produce milk, meat, and money. That means that we are purchasing does that have the ability to produce a gallon of milk a day. A buck that can produce stout kids that can will get at least 75# of meat at one year.

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Meet The New Goats

June 1, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

I’m here to tell you, goats are addicting. What started as “long term lawn mowers” has turned into so much more. Goats are seriously the most entertaining critter on our homestead. They jump, play, and get into trouble. While they are not beginner livestock, they are totally worth it. On Sunday we brought 3 more new goats to the homestead.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Bringing New Goats To The Homestead

Bringing new goats the homestead can be a stressful event. It’s not just getting them and bringing them home that can be an undertaking. In fact, getting them loaded up and to the homestead is sometimes the easiest part. Bonding with them, quarantine, and learning them is up there with the hardest parts.

The New Goats

We are slowly but surely working our way into the dairy goat business. In the mean time, we are building our herd with genetics that will make us successful. Crooked Oak Farm of SC hooked us up with two gorgeous doelings and a BIG buck.

Of course within 24 hours of them being on the homestead, they ended up ingesting mountain laurel and we had to bring them into the living room to nurse them through it. I swear, if it’s not one thing it’s another with these animals. But we got them through it and they are in their respective pens.

Spike is our new buck. We decided that we wanted to have the ability to retain doelings that caught our fancy. The problem is that I can’t breed the doe back to her father. I mean I could, but the chances of there being problems is high and I don’t want that.

Jade and Sapphire are our 8 week old, blue eyed doelings. They are adorable and full of piss and vinegar which I love. The first night we had them, they screamed the entire night because they wanted their momma back. The second night they were in my living room fighting off toxemia. The third night they were back to screaming their heads off. My poor neighbors must hate us.

The best part of the last four days is that Champ had her baby! So I ran a pool for how many she would have. I got guesses all over as well as different dates. Since she decided it kid a full week after her due date, the dates didn’t matter. But I guessed that she would have three babies and she did! Unfortunately, only one of them lived. We are not 100% the cause but we have our suspicions. But Stella was born and started screaming at me within about 10 seconds.

Champ is seriously the best momma. I was concerned at first because Champ didn’t seem to want anything to do with Stella, but over the last several days she has really become an awesome momma. Stella has blue eyes like her momma and I am absolutely thrilled to have her.

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We are still on baby watch for Bella but she isn’t showing any signs of having those babies so I guess we’ll see what she does over the next week or so. We also think that Bailey and Oakley may be pregnant which would be awesome since they are just now big enough that I’m not super worried about the kidding.

So that brings our count to nine goats…. I think.

Update: Bella had her baby

Bella gave us a cute little buckling that we named BeBe (Bella’s Baby). He was retained for meat. Over the last couple years since the original post, she has given us a total of 4 gorgeous babies that all look exactly like her… Except Maverick, he doesn’t look much like her but he’s equally adorable.

Stella is doing amazing and has grown into a really beautiful goat and good mama too. She gave us two doelings that were absolutely adorable! Unfortunately, the were born in June and didn’t make it through our summer and parasite loads, despite throwing everything we had at them.

Bringing New Goats To The Homestead

This year, 2024, we had plans to bring new meat goats to the homestead. But we decided to switch gears and work on our pastures instead. That means that we are potentially holding off on new goats until our pastures are better equipped to handle them.

My hope is that by the end of 2024, we will have a flourishing herd of hardy, milk and meat goats.

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Can Goats Eat….Yellow Squash?

May 25, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

Yes, along with many other things. But they can’t eat everything. There is a huge myth out there that goats can eat anything and they can’t. In fact goats are incredibly picky eaters and they can/will eat a lot of different types of food. They have a type of sixth sense that tells them not to eat certain foods. However, if it’s in the pasture and they are hungry, they will eat it. Can goats eat yellow squash? Yup, and they love it.

can goats eat yellow squash

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Before We Get Into What Goats Can Eat

This is not a complete list of every single thing they can eat. Nor should it take the place of your vets advise. When it doubt, contact your vet. Also, when introducing a new food to your goat, keep an eye on them for allergic reactions, choking, etc. Midas absolutely loves cantaloupe rinds but I didn’t chop them small enough, he almost choked in his gusto to eat them before everyone else could.

So when it comes to the question; can a goat eat…. the answer is maybe.

What Grasses Can Goats Eat

Alfalfa

Clover

Timothy

Bahiagrass

Fescue

Bermuda

Bromegrass

Millet

Ryegrass

Orchard

Goats will eat grass, but when given an option between grass and weeds, they will go to the weed. That is because they are browsers and not so much grazers. Our pastures are mostly grasses with a ton of briars, poke berries, and other weeds that they love.

I’ve been hearing more and more that goats are “growse-rs”. Basically what that means is that they will browse on weeds and woody stemmed plants but also graze grasses and other low laying plants. And it’s true, they are “growse-rs but I don’t think it’s because they are supposed to be. I think because they have been in human care for so long they have adapted to grasses and hays.

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Which Fruits Are Safe

Apples

Banana and peels

Cantaloupe and rinds

Honey Dew and rinds

Plum- no pits

Grapefruit and peel

Kiwi

Mango

Oranges

Peaches- No Pits

Pineapple and rinds

Blueberries

Raspberries

Watermelon and rinds

Grapes

Apricots

Fruit should be fed in small quantities as well as in small pieces. Don’t let your goats gorge on it. That being said, goats can eat apples, cantaloupe, and really any fruit. But make sure you cut it small enough and remove any pits or seeds.

To expand a little further on whether a goat can eat fruit, I would say that for the most part goats can eat just about any of them. My concern is more the pits and seeds. If the pit or seed is too big, they probably shouldn’t eat it.

Veggies They Can Eat

Turnip- They like the greens vs the actual turnip

Green Beans

Zucchini

Carrots

Pumpkin

Summer Squash

Corn

Squash

Garlic- small amounts. Can also help with worms

My goats get about 20% of the garden waste when the garden is in full production. Usually they end up with the scraps from squash, cucumbers, etc. But at the end of the season, we will usually let the goats into the gardens for a couple of days for them to nom nom anything that is left over. They save us a ton of labor tearing out plants and money because we don’t have to feed them.

I will say that the only thing we have noticed when it comes to potato leaves is they will get loose stool occasionally. It could be from the potato leaves or because the sky was a weird shade of blue. Goats can be very finicky health wise so it’s always good to err on the side of caution. So we don’t intentionally feed them potato leaves anymore.

But that doesn’t mean that they don’t get into them.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Horse Quality Hay

Alfalfa

Timothy

Orchard

Bermuda

Tall Fescue

When purchasing hay for goats, they can eat the same as the grasses above. But we really want to make sure that it’s good quality hay. Some people do not get quality hay for their goats and instead get cheap hay. Don’t do this.

Goats can get really sick from moldy hay. When you see “last year’s hay, good for mulch, bedding or goats” run for the hills. You will have more headache from that hay then it is worth.

Also, understand that when it comes to hay, your goat may absolutely love Brome but hate Orchard. Our girls loved Timothy but refused Brome. Or my personal favorite, they will eat Orchard grass but refuse Orchard hay… Go figure.

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Can Goats Have Grain

Grain is great for pregnant or lactating goats. I’ve written up an entire post about grain and it’s place in your goats diet.

Another thing is that grain should only make up maybe 5-10% of their diet. In fact, goats don’t need grain at all. The only time we feed them grain is when they are pregnant, lactating, or we need to hold them still for hoof trims and to give medications.

can goats eat yellow squash

We exclusively feed Tucker Mill Dairy Goat. It’s in the pink bag and we have seen an incredible turn around in the condition of our thinner goats. We also will give grain to our boys when in full rut. The reason is because some boys will stop eating when they go into rut. And our bucks definitely will. We want to make sure that they have access to as much food as possible.

Weeds To Plant Or Protect

Briars- I am the crazy lady that went and replanted all the briars from the property and replanted them in the goat pastures.

Poke Berries

Multiflora Rose

Ragweed

Crabgrass

Chicory

Kudzu

Sericea Lespedeza- If you can get your hands on this seed do it! Seriously, this has been studied extensively had has been proven to be a natural dewormer.

Goats are technically browsers and they will eat themselves out of a job if you let them. Now, I am not saying that you need to plant weeds in your pasture. But I am saying that if you end up falling in love with your goat ***raises hand****, you will end up planting weeds in your pasture.

Our herd health bundle helps you keep track of your herd’s health. Includes the goat assessment, herd check sheets AND Herd Health Tracker!

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Supplements

Loose minerals

BOSS- Black Oil Sunflower Seeds

Nutridrench

Baking Soda

Goat Probiotics

Salt

Electrolytes

Copper Bolus– We take them out of the capsules to prevent choke

Can Goats Eat… Yellow Squash?

At the end of the day, you have to figure out what is best for your goats. We feed our goats scraps from the garden based off this list. When the green beans come in and we start processing, they get a pile of ends and dropped pieces. Same with our chickens.

I would say that a goat can eat a ton of different foods, but there are a lot of foods that can make them very sick. The best thing you can do is make sure that you give small amounts and see.

If you are concerned about what your goats are eating or what they can have, contact your small rumen vet and see what they say.

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Our Goats Are Pregnant

May 21, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

Well, Midas isn’t because he’s a buck. Oakley and Bailey are possibly pregnant but Champ and Bella sure are! I guess I could reword the title to say Champ and Bella are pregnant. Meh. Either way, I am ridiculously excited for some goat kids on the homestead!

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Let’s Go Back

In October, I watched Midas do his business with his girls. At the time we only had Champ and Bella. About a month later we had the vet come out to do a herd check and see if the girls were pregnant. The vet did an ultrasound both girls and didn’t find anything. She said that Midas was too young to get the job done. Well, someone forgot to tell Midas that.

Over the next several months we noticed that both girls were getting heavier and were excited because they were pretty thin going into winter despite how much we fed them and negative fecals.

They’re Not Fat… They’re Pregnant!

One day I went out to hang out with my goats and bam! Champ’s udders had gotten huge and her vulva was pretty swollen. If you don’t know anything about goats, these are pretty solid indicators that they are pregnant and close to delivery. I posted a picture on one of the pages I’m apart of on Facebook, and every single person came back and said, she’s pregnant. They also said we probably only had a few weeks before delivery.

Instant panic! I had no idea they were even pregnant and now we are weeks from birthing. So we have been prepping for the birthing and Jared has been building kidding pens. Constantly checking ligaments and making sure they get enough grain. Midas was not impressed that he is not allowed to have all the grain.

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With all the panic, the wonderful lady I am buying our two new doelings from has been amazing and answering all the questions I have. She has talked me off the ledge a couple of times without her even realizing she did. She’s also been very helpful when Oakley (brown and white goat) got really sick.

Today, March 20th, starts our baby watch for Champ and Bella. We are hoping for a safe delivery for both girls. As for the kids? We don’t care if they are boys or girls, as long as they are healthy and thrive.

Oakley and Bailey are possibly pregnant but it’s hard to tell because it’s so soon for them. We may have the vet do an ultrasound on them when they come out to disbud the new babies, but we shall see.

We will follow with an update when they are born and everyone pulls through *fingers crossed*

The Long Awaited Update

So this post was written on 3/20/21…. As of this update, the original post is 3 years old. Man, time flies! A lot has changed with our goat herd and both life and death has occurred on the farm.

I am pleased to say that all four girls, Bella, Champ, Oakley and Baily were pregnant. Bella gave us a healthy buckling named Be Be (or Bella’s Baby). Champ gave us three doelings but only Stella was born alive. Oakley and Bailey both gave us beautiful bucklings.

Unfortunately, we lost Oakley and Bailey’s bucklings due to worms that fall. BeBe was sent to freezer camp this past January. And Champ died this past winter at the ripe “old” age of 9 years old. While we know that death is a part of life, especially on the homestead, it still hurts.

However, Bella has given us 3 more babies over the years, as have Oakley and Bailey. Our herd has grown from 5 to 14, healthy, happy bouncing goats. We have learned a ton about goats, raising babies, and cooking goat meat.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Maintaining Flexiblity

I mentioned homestead flexibility in this post, and it is a skill that is absolutely necessary when you are learning how to grow food, raise animals and be good stewards. Our original plan for the goat herd was to sell registered goats. But as time has gone on, we shifted our focus from breeding registered goat stock, to breeding for hardiness and milk.

We have learned when to breed and when to hold back. We’ve learned more tried and true methods to tracking pregnancy and how to raise bottle babies.

I think the most important shift that we have come to accept is that we just can’t keep all the goats. That sometimes, they will need to go to freezer camp (slaughter) and that’s okay. And yes, it’s hard. I’ve got three kids that we are raising for that purpose right now. We can’t keep all of them because our livestock are not pets.

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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Should You Deworm Your Goats?

May 4, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

There is no simple answer to this. Some farmers will deworm monthly. Others, like me, only deworm when there is a positive fecal or other significant signs or symptoms of needing dewormer. Answering the question should you deworm your goats, isn’t one that is easy to answer. Instead, I’ll tell you what we do and some options that you can use for your goats and farm.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Does Your Goat Have Worms?

Every goat has worms. Period. It is not necessarily a bad thing for goats to have them. The issue is when the goat becomes stressed like with labor, travel or when you are in a high parasite area. Georgia has an insane parasite load, especially in the summer and worms will kill your goat. So then you have to deworm and the vicious cycle starts all over.

Our Main Parasites

The main parasites in my area, and we deal with commonly, are Barber Pole, Coccidia, and lung worms. What happens is that the worm or eggs are shed when the goat poops. It then attaches to grass and when the goat eats the grass, they get re-infected with worms.

Goats will naturally not eat grass or browse that is too short unless there is no other option. They usually eat down to about 4-6 inches and then will move on. This will expose the worm larvae and the sun should kill it.

Unfortunately, if you are not rotating your pastures often enough or feeding on the ground, you will get your goats sick. The sun will not have enough time to kill the larvae or worms themselves and you will end up back in the same boat you were in before.

So the best way to stop this cycle is to allow 90 days between each pasture to allow the grass or browse to get tall enough for the goats to eat it. Sometimes this isn’t possible but do the best you can, even if it’s just between two pastures.

Why you shouldn’t deworm your goats every month

Just like with antibiotics, you should only use dewormers if necessary. The more you use antibiotics, whether for yourself or your livestock, the less likely they are to work. Every sniffle doesn’t require antibiotics. It’s the same way with dewormers.

If you over use a dewormer, the dewormer simply will not work as effectively as before… And they aren’t making new dewormers! Since so many goat farmers have overused dewormer, we are already at the point where dewormers aren’t working. Now, we have to use two different dewormers over the course of several days or weeks to get the same results.

Our herd health bundle helps you keep track of your herd’s health. Includes the goat assessment, herd check sheets AND Herd Health Tracker!

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We use cydectin and safe guard at the same time, and have had good results. But again, I will treat for worms with a positive fecal. Or whenever their FAMACHA is low, poor body condition, or other sign that the goats need dewormer. But I try really hard to only do deworm with fecals.

There will come a time when those dewormers are no longer effective. I’ve actually talked to some goat people in other parts of the country that have said that those dewormers are not longer effective for them either.

Holistic Care VS Deworming Your Goat

There are quite a few other things that can be done to help manage parasite loads. The first is pasture management. We touched on pasture rotation above, but it goes far beyond that. Pasture management is also making sure that your pasture isn’t being used by too many animals for too long, or not being taken care of between rotations. Only you will know if you have too many animals for too long on YOUR pasture. But if you are not rotating your pasture at all, expect to have issues with parasites.

Another way to help control parasites holistically is to feed or plant things that are known to kill parasites. Pumpkin seeds are high in tannins which are a natural dewormer. Same with garlic, oregano, clove, turmeric, cayenne pepper, and copper bolus.

If you can get your hands on it, seeding your pastures with some Sericea Lespedeza. This is a natural dewormer that has been studied extensively by Fort Valley State University. They have found that goats that ingest this plant regularly have virtually zero parasites…. Which is amazing!

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Breeding For Hardiness

I’m going to step up on my soap box for a minute here…. As someone who screwed up myself.

Another thing that you should be doing is breeding for hardiness. Especially in high parasite areas like the southeast. Sure, that blue eyed beauty is great, but if you are having to deworm her constantly, is she really that great?

I know this is a sore subject for a lot of goat owners, and probably not something that you want to hear…. BUT. Breeding for hardiness is what will save the future of these goats.

Before you think I’m being preach-y, I did it too! I wanted beautiful, blue eyed mini Nubians throughout my herd… Until I noticed that I was having to deworm those goats constantly. Every summer. But those mutt goats? Thrived! I have never HAD to deworm those mutts. Why? Because they were genetically hardy.

So really think about what you are purchasing, breeding and allowing to keep breeding. Because at the end of the day, livestock are not pets and should not always be treated that way.

***Steps off the soapbox****

So What Do We Do?

The best thing that we could possibly do is stop the unnecessary use of dewormers. Stop deworming every single month and start running fecals to see if your herd truly needs to be dewormed. Our fecals run us $22 for a herd fecal through the vet.

If your comfortable with a microscope, eager to learn, or got some cash to burn you can get a microscope, mcmaster slides, solution, and 1cc syringes for about $220 depending on where you are. There is also a really in depth video on YouTube that is pretty informative.

Also, learn how to do herd checks and FAMACHA tests to make sure they are healthy. When you are used to seeing them “normal” it is very easy to tell when they are sick. We have a book that we keep updated with any treatments done, fecals and results and more.

goat kidding

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

Buy Now

You can see the pages that we use here on our product page. This really helps us keep up with who is gaining/losing weight, when vaccines are due, and so much more. We keep it in our livestock binder to keep everything on hand.

At the end of the day, you have to choose what is right for your animal. I am not here to tell you otherwise. I just want to tell you what we do and why we do it. I strongly disagree with the overuse of medication of any form, however, I am not afraid to use it when necessary. Necessary being the key and most important word.

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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