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Commands To Teach Farm Dogs

April 9, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

Everyone is different on how they train dogs. Some are highly intense and want to teach their dogs commands with hand signals, a clicker, and all the things. Others are so laid back that they barely train their dogs. Then you have those in the middle (myself) that really just want my dogs to have some simple, basic commands that are easy to train and follow. But when you start teaching your new farm dog commands, it may mean life or death. Because I don’t know where you are in your journey, I am going to give you my commands to teach farm dogs and how to actually teach them.

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Commands To Teach Farm Dogs

I am going to make a lot of assumptions here because if I don’t, this is going to take FOREVER to explain. Besides my attention span being short, I have other things to do. Like train my own dogs, plant, milk, etc. So in effort to keep this as basic, short and simple as possible we are going to assume some things.

One, you have some basic idea of how to train a dog. This means that you understand that if you are training to get your dog to learn sit, you know that you will have to gently (but firmly) push their butt down as you say sit, then give the treat. If you don’t know how to do those things, I suggest highly that you save this post, and go watch YouTube videos on how to train a dog to sit. Then come back for the rest of this post.

Two, we are going to assume that you know that when you and/or the dog has had enough training. If you are getting frustrated, they are not going to work with you. Dogs are incredibly smart creatures and they are more in tune with you than you realize. So if you are frustrated or pissed off, that is going to come through and the dog will thin you are frustrated or pissed off at it.

Three, you understand that working WITH your dog is more important than being the master of your dog. You will get more out of your dog by asking instead of demanding. Unless it is a true life or death situation, you do not need to dominate your dog to get your point across.

Four, I don’t know why I even need to bring this up, but again, your bond is the most important thing you can have with your dog. Don’t ruin your bond because you are not getting your way.

Fifth, we are assuming you have already been working with the dog on their name, learning their behaviors, etc.

Tools For Training

You do not have to go all out when training dogs. I talked about the various tools that I use when training farm dogs here. But some other tools that you would probably want to have on hand are below:

Training Pouch– This thing is absolutely necessary, especially if you are working from the ground up. I used to carry a bunch of treats in my pocket, and sometimes still do, but if I am doing a serious training session, I pull out the pouch.

Training Treats– Now, I am ALL about using dog food as treats because it works really well. Honestly, you may not need treats or food at all depending on your dogs needs. Some dogs prefer treats, others want praise and still others want a toy. So figure out what reward they want and use it. But when I am training my dogs, I use training treats because we are past the dog food as a reward stage.

That’s really it for a lot of these commands. I don’t train them to go to a board or place.

Let’s get to training!

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My favorite commands and how I teach them

Sit, Stay And Down

I know, you came to learn about training farm dogs! This is basics! But let me tell you about the phase, “Paramedics save lives, EMT’s save Paramedics”. The idea behind this phrase is that I can do ALL these things to save your life, but if I don’t go back to the basics of care, none of it matters. For example, I am trained to defibrillate your heart should it stop beating. But that part doesn’t matter if I can’t breathe for you and get your heart pumping manually.

So we start with the basics.

Teaching your dog to sit, down and stay are the most basic and most important commands because if you can get your dog to sit and trust you enough to stay, they get all the good things. If they can’t lay down and rest for a minute, they are going to end up getting hurt or hurting someone else. The very first thing I teach every single dog that comes into my home is how to sit and down. Stay is a take or leave command for me. Rarely do I need my dogs to stay put. If I do, I just put them in the house or their crates.

I’m not going to bore you with how to teach sit because again, we are assuming you know how to get your dog to sit. If not, go to YouTube and come back.

Come

If you are teaching your dog to be off leash like I teach at the end of this blog post, you are already teaching your dog to come. But to be honest, I don’t have an actual command for getting them to come to me. Though, I guess you could say that the know the word or maybe it’s the tone. Usually, when it’s time to go back in the house, I yell out some version of “Come on, guys.” And the dogs all race to house.

Whatever command you are going to use to get your dogs to come to you, make sure you stick with it. This is the command that your dogs will associate with great things like coming inside, getting on the couch or bed, and generally being with you.

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Bed

Giving your dog their own space is incredibly important, especially when you have multiple dogs. Our dogs go into crates when we feed them, when we leave the house, or when we have company over. This one can take a while to learn because some dogs have never been crated. Kodi cannot be crated because he absolutely refuses to crate. We’ve tried everything. Short of shoving his 130# butt into the crate, he’s not going. So he stays loose with Bear, but they still have a “bed” and they go there when it’s time to settle.

To teach Bed (or whatever name you want to give the crate), I simply put their food in the crate and say go to Bed. They have to go into the crate to get their breakfast or dinner, and as time goes on, they learn that the crate is a great place.

Also, don’t underestimate the value of other dogs knowing their crates. I did not teach Fenrir Bed. He picked it up from Blu and us placing his food bowl in the crate.

Leave It

This command is the second most important command on a farm. When your dog is locked in on something, like a chicken, it is important that you can get their attention away from that object. Or if they are digging to China, you to be able to get them to stop.

The way I teach this command is actually pretty simple and it’s a daily training thing.

First, I take the dog outside and let it play. When the dog locks onto something, I call their name. When they look at me, I praise the hell out of them. After a few times, I will say something like, “Blu, Leave It“. This introduces the command. Then rinse and repeat. This can take a few times for them to really understand what you are wanting and you should be prepared to intervene if necessary.

If they don’t respond when I call their name, I will usually do something to get their attention. Something like a gentle tug on the leash (attached to their prong collar because we are training) or throw a stick, ball, toy, etc near them to break their concentration. When they look at me, I praise them. Then I will slowly start to introduce their name and the command Leave It.

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Quiet

This is one that has been freestyled (which I go over at the bottom) because I can’t stand barking dogs. If the dog has something to bark about, ok. But barking to bark drives me insane. So I accidentally, on purpose, taught the dogs that when I get up to check to see what they are barking at, if it’s nothing (or I can’t see anything) I will tell them to Quiet.

If I see something, I tell them good job and then go sit down. They are still barking like crazy because there is something there, but at least they warned me. Which is all I want them to do.

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Drop It

We have all had the situation where the dog has something you do not want them to have. Whether it’s a ball for playing fetch, or a dead animal, we want them to spit out what’s in their mouth. On a farm, it is even more important because there are a bunch of things it could be. Last year, the dogs found the hole that contained the pig head…. Do we need to talk about the absolute horror of watching your dog carry around a pig head?

How to teach Drop It? With great patience.

Actually, the trick is offer a higher value treat as a trade. The other trick is to not treat it like a game. Which is weird because that’s how we are going to train it.

The easiest way to teach Drop It is by teaching the dog to play fetch. We start with a reward, most often a ball but Blu prefers sticks, and we shake it in front of them to get them excited, and then throw it just far enough for them to be able to get it while still on leash. Or further if they are allowed off leash. When they bring it back, a lot of people just yank the ball or stick out of the dogs mouth.

I’m sorry, but my dogs have very large teeth, and while I’m not opposed to shoving my hand down their throat if the situation calls for it, I am not doing that for a ball. So I teach Drop It, by putting them in a sit and then telling them to Drop It. Telling the dog to sit signals that you need their attention. This is when I will either take it from them, gently, or I will throw another ball or stick. It really depends on the dog.

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This particular command takes time because you have to figure out how YOUR dog will actually drop that high value treat or toy.

In the case of the pigs head, we tried various ways to get them to drop the head, but nothing worked. We had to wait until they lost interest enough that we could call them into the house. Then we disposed of the head deeper in the ground, much further away.

Easy

This is a very important command that all dogs should know, regardless of type of dog, where you live, etc. It is invaluable to be able to put your dog at ease in stressful situations. Unfortunately, the only way to really teach Easy is to put in action. This is going to be an on going thing that will change and adapt based on your dog.

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The reason why this command is so important is because your dog simply does not understand what is happening. Imagine with me that you are going to a new country with completely different customs than yours. No one speaks your language and you don’t speak theirs. You have fallen and broken your leg. How absolutely frustrating, terrifying, and nerve wracking would it be to try and navigate care?

This is every single day with your dog. They do not understand what you are wanting and every new experience can be absolutely terrifying. Not to mention there is this big goon trying to communicate with you.

So I teach Easy in a very soothing, laid back way. If I see my dog starting to get amped up, or freaked out, everything stops. I go to the dog and love on them and whisper Easy. Once they have calmed down, we will either return to what we were doing, or we will take a break.

An example of using it would be taking the dog to the vet. You know that you have an appointment in 3 months. So one of the ways that you could do this is by getting the dog in the car now. You notice the dog getting anxious, give them some love and a treat and say Easy as they start to calm down. Once the car has been mastered, and they can be trusted, take them to a pet friendly store and just walk with them. Anytime you see them getting worked up, stop and love on them. Whisper Easy to them and give them treats (or other rewards) until they calm.

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Unfortunately, we don’t always know what is going to set a dog off. But if we can build a solid bond and then work through that bond, you will see your dog start to turn to you before they even get freaked out.

To give a real life example, all of the dogs hate when we go down to the range for practice. In fact, the only dog that will tolerate it is Bear, everyone else has to be put in crates. Bear knows that he will get his ear muffs put on, with a neck gator over the muffs and his head. Then we all walk down the range. He’s nervous and already shaking but he desperately wants to go with us. He will cry, howl, and go nuts if we leave him. So we keep working with him on it. While down at the range, someone is in charge of Bear. They love on him and give him treats and when he has had enough, he goes back up to the house.

There are voluntary and involuntary situations that you and your dog are going to find yourselves in. But having a command that the dog knows will comfort them? Man, that has made all the difference with our dogs. I could ask Bear to do ANYTHING and he would do it because I have worked with him and comforted him every time he gets worked up.

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✅ Garden Journal – Digital & printable
✅ Herd Health Tracker – Monitor animal care
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Freestyling Commands

One last thing to be aware of is that you will end freestyling a lot of your training. You can read every training blog or book and watch all of the videos. But at the end of the day, I have found most of my training is freestyle.

What is freestyle training? It is simply telling your dog what to do, over time, and them doing it.

For example, we can nudge the dog three times on the bed and they know to get down.

Another example is when we are standing around talking or whatever. All of our dogs will come up, sit down, and place their head against our hip to be loved on. We never taught them that.

We taught them to not to go out an open door just by making them sit at the door to go outside. If they don’t sit, they don’t go outside. This has morphed into being able to leave the door open and them not going outside because we didn’t let them out. It’s the weirdest thing.

You don’t have to use my commands to teach farm dogs

You may have a totally different idea for leave it, drop it, sit, down, stay, etc. Use whatever works for you. But always keep it simple. If you can pronounce the word or change the word constantly, your dog is going to get really confused.

Keeping commands simple and easy to follow will always be the most successful.

Also don’t worry if it takes your dog longer to learn something. Just stay with it.

Lastly! Make sure that whatever commands you teach, your entire family uses! I can’t tell you how many times Jared or the boys would irritated that the dog wasn’t doing what it was told, only to find out they used the wrong word.

Other Posts From Training A Farm Dog Series

How I Train My Farm Dogs

How To Train Farm Dogs

Tips, Tools and Hacks For Training Farm Dogs

Best Breeds For Farm Dogs

Commands For Training Farm Dogs

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Filed Under: Animals, Farm Dogs Tagged With: dogs, farm dogs, homestead dogs, training dogs, training farm dogs

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Best Farm Dog Breeds

April 6, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

We have covered a lot of topics in the Training Farm Dogs series, but we haven’t covered what to do if you don’t have a dog yet. Or, maybe, you are looking to bring a new doggo to your farm. There are a ton of dogs out there that are looking for new homes, and I will always recommend rescues 99% of the time, but farm dogs are a little different. Today, we are going to cover the best farm dog breeds, but also what to look for in dogs if you are looking to rescue instead of purchase.

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What are the best farm dog breeds?

But before we get into the breeds, let’s talk about temperament first. Even if you get a dog that is from a great working line, if that dog doesn’t have the temperament, drive or desire to do the work you want them to do, it’s going to be an uphill battle.

As we have covered in previous blog posts, I firmly believe that any dog can be a farm dog with the right training. The training doesn’t have to be labor intensive, but working against a dog’s natural instincts can be a very frustrating, and for some dogs, near impossible. So making sure that you are picking the right breed AND the right temperament is, hands down, the best way to insure success with the least amount of frustration.

I have broken down the best farm dog breeds by their “purpose” to make it a little easier to distinguish which ones work for what. Some examples are working dogs, Livestock Guardian Dogs (LGD), herding dogs, and other dogs that I think would be a good fit for a farm. I KNOW that there are more categories, but these are the breeds I think you will have the best luck with on a farm.

Also, I am going to give you the dogs that I have actual experience with, either because I have owned one, know farmers who have them or have seen them work. I don’t want to give you a false impression of not having had these dogs/ breeds.

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Determining The Temperament Of Your Future Farm Dog

This one is going to be hard to figure out if you are getting a rescue. The reality is that dogs at a shelter are not going to show you their true colors until they are in your home. Shelters are extremely stressful environments and it takes time for your new doggo to become comfortable. It’s the same way for puppies, though obviously not to the same extent.

To determine the temperament of your potential new dog, start with putting your hands on them. If it’s a puppy, flip it on to it’s back (like a baby) and see how they respond. Are they comfortable? Are they freaking out? If they are calm, they are likely to be more submissive and trusting. If they are freaking out, they are likely to be more dominate and have a higher drive.

You can tug on their ears or tail and see how they react. And I’m not talking about tugging so hard we hurt the pup/ dog. We are just applying enough pressure to see a reaction. Do they want to play or are they angry? Can you touch their paws and nails without them panicking? Are they friendly or are they stand offish?

These are important factors in figuring out their temperament. If they are laid back and easy going, they will be less likely to chase chickens and goats… though not always. If they are active but not aggressive, they will likely require more working hours to keep them happy.

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Working Line Breeds

German Shepherd Dog

The German Shepherd has made a recent resurgence in the public eye. While I don’t disagree that these are absolutely fantastic dogs, you do need to be extremely careful when it comes to the farm. Depending on the bloodlines of your specific dog, you may have a dog that is better worked as a military/LEO dog. Or you may have a couch potato. Or something in between.

The GSD is a fantastic dog for those that want a dog that doesn’t think a whole lot. What I mean is that GSD’s are GREAT with training and doing exactly what their owners ask of them. But they tend to get into trouble when they have to think for themselves. I say this as someone who has owned several GSD’s over the years. They are all incredibly smart…. except that they don’t think very well.

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If you choose to get a GSD for your farm, understand that it WILL chase your livestock and poultry. At least until it’s old enough to know and DO better. Blu still chases chickens and she’s 3…. and knows better. The GSD, from a non working line, is a better companion to the farmer than the farm.

Leonberger

If I’m being totally honest, this may be my new favorite dog breed. Or maybe I just got really lucky with Kodi. I don’t have a ton of experience with the breed, but I do have a ton of experience with Kodi and he fits everything I’ve read about the Leo. Plus, the various breeders I’ve contacted have all confirmed what I’m about to tell you.

First and foremost, training a Leo is not for the feint of heart. In fact, I would go so far as to say good luck training this dog. This is a dog who actually THINKS, which is absolutely remarkable. But it also incredibly frustrating. This is the dog version of the kid who always asks “Why?” I ask him to sit, and he just looks at me. I offer a treat for sitting, and he just looks at me. He knows exactly what I am asking him to do, but if he doesn’t want to do what I’ve asked, he’s just not going to do it.

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They are runners. Even with the best of fences, training (yea, right) and collars, Kodi has zero desire to stay close. And if there’s water around (we have a giant pond on the property), they are going to go to the water every time. Can’t find the dog? Find the water, he’s splashing around in it.

Second, if you want a clean house, a Leo is not for you. I have found Kodi slime on EVERYTHING! I was recently dusting off the ceiling fan and found his slobber on the light and blades. HOW?! We carry bandannas in our pockets, not to wipe our hands or wipe our sweat. NO! It’s to wipe off all the drool! Do you remember that seen in Beethoven (1992) when he slings his head around and slobber goes everywhere? Yea, that is a daily occurrence here.

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Not to mention that this dog is incredibly furry, so you will never have a fur free home. And while you may THINK this isn’t a big deal, trust me when I tell you it is. Like, I budget for two vacuums a year because we burn them up…. big deal. And no amount of brushing is going to fix that problem.

St. Bernard’s, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Mastiffs, etc are all going to fall into this category with the Leo.

Livestock Guardian Dogs

I need to be 100% honest, I do not have an LGD. It’s on the list of priorities, but I just don’t have the time right now to devote to a LGD. But I am going to give you my research as well as second hand information that I have gotten from other farmers with LGD’s.

When you are trying to figure out which breed of LGD you are looking for, I would start with a list of qualifications you want it to have. For us that list is: low maintenance, low roaming, low barking, handle big threats (200-300# black bears and HUGE packs of coyotes), dog and people friendly (to a point), doesn’t attack without cause, and needs to be able to think independently.

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Then you need to marry that list up with the qualifications of these different breeds. Just because you can find a breed for $500 doesn’t mean it’s going to be a good fit for you. Better to get a dog that fits your expectations than to get a dog because it’s what you could find. For example, if I was to just research which breeds were available in my area, I would end up with a Great Pyrenes. That breed is a barker, high roamer, high maintenance, and will go after a threat despite property lines.

When the time comes we will be getting a Spanish Mastiff. This breed tends to not wander off like the Great Pyrenes, Anatolians, etc. They are also not big barkers, though they can and will. We’ve got coyotes and bears up here that like to get a little too close for comfort.

Also, be leery of rescue groups or someone selling their adult LGD. Usually, it’s a failed farm dog or LGD that has ended up at the rescue.

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While I would love to go in depth here about best farm dog breeds, LGD’s don’t really fit into this space and it really deserves it’s own post. And realistically, I am not qualified to write at this time.

Herding Dogs

This falls in line with the LGD in that I don’t have a ton of personal experience with these dogs. I don’t know that I’ve ever truly had a herding dog. Sure, I rescue most of my dogs and there could have been herding genetics in there, but most of my dogs have never really herded.

Herding breeds are going to be dogs like Blue/Red heelers, Australian shepherds, Border Collies, etc. And yes, technically the German Shepherd fits in this category, but with all the breeding of this dog, I don’t think they really fit into this category any more.

Herding dogs on a farm is a fantastic way to gather up animals and herd them into a different place. But read that sentence again. And maybe one more time. This breed will chase your chickens, goats, cattle, etc. And if they try to chase them and are successful, they may end up on the wrong side of a cow. So be aware of how you are training these dogs. Also, be aware of potential vet visits not only for the dog but for the livestock on the other end of those teeth.

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The flip side to this is that if you are going to get a Heeler because they are cute, remember that if they don’t have something to herd, they will herd you or your kids.

These are incredibly smart dogs and I have seen them do incredible work. But if you are not ready for that kind of dog, don’t get it.

Other Dogs For Farm Work

Hold on tight because this is where I have the most experience.

Pit bulls have to be my favorite farm dog. Period. Blog post done.

To be fair, pit bulls are my favorite dog. For the most part, this breed checks every single one of my boxes:

Loyal, friendly, protective, couch potato, laid back, extremely trainable, sweet, affectionate, highly intelligent, and more.

Seriously, I will sing the praises of this breed until the day I die. I have had so many wonderful pitties that I will always have one as a foot warmer and companion. Now, just like any other breed, you will have some that are more dominate and aggressive. You will have others that are complete and total couch potatoes that you have to poke with a stick to see if they are still alive.

But I have found that even the most aggressive pit bull comes around with solid training and a loving home.

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Get the tools you need to stay organized, track profits, and manage your homestead with ease!

Includes:
✅ Schedule F Tracker – Simplify tax prep
✅ Profit Calculator – Track earnings
✅ Hay Calculator – Plan livestock feed
✅ Garden Journal – Digital & printable
✅ Herd Health Tracker – Monitor animal care
✅ Simple Budget – Manage finances
✅ Backyard Homestead eBook – Essential tips

$99 value – now just $47! Start your homesteading journey today!

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Bear is my current pound special and I know he’s probably got pit in him because he is literally the best companion pet I could have ever asked for. When I’m in the garden, he finds a spot to lay down and snoozes while I plant, prune, weed or harvest. If I’m in bed, he’s snuggled up next to me. When it’s nap time, he’s either the little spoon or on my feet.

He is well behaved but aware. If we go to tractor supply and he is watching someone, I am watching them too. If he doesn’t want a treat, I tell the person no. Is he amazing because I’ve had him so long or because he’s just a good dog? Who knows.

Labradors and retrievers are another good option for farm dogs, again as long as the training is on point.

Breeds I would not recommned

This is a hard thing to answer simply due to all the variables that come with your farm, your land, your livestock, etc. But I think there are a few breeds that I would stay away from no matter what. At least when it comes to farm dogs.

The first would be a Malinois. This dog is on crack ALL THE TIME! I would not recommend this type of dog to anyone that isn’t willing and able to devote several hours a day to training, mental stimulation, and exercise.

The second would be a hound of any breed. I’m not saying they don’t have their place, but I’m not sure a farm would be a great fit. They are loud, stinky and have their own mind, which would be fine if they weren’t loud, stinky and energetic.

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Third, I would be highly cautious of herding breeds if you are not ACTIVELY using them for work. If you are not well versed in training a herding dog, they will absolutely chase and maul your chickens. They will even possibly hurt/ maim your goats or sheep. Especially if you are not able to train them correctly. Again, use caution here.

Fourth, hunting breeds. This would be breeds like a Jack Russel, Great Dane, Labradors, Dobermans, Rottweilers, etc. These breeds were trained to have a high prey drive and to hunt. Sure, you may have a Lab that is a couch potato, but put a squeaky toy that actually runs and squeaks on it’s own and see if those instincts kick in.

Any dog can be a farm dog with the right training

I will say it again and again. I truly believe that any dog can be a good farm dog with the right training. There are no best farm dog breeds because there are so many variables that will shape if that breed is a good fit for your farm.

My hope is that you take a solid look at what you have going on, the goals and priorities for your farm, and the type of training you can ACTUALLY do before you start looking at various breeds.

As always I hope this helps to point you in the right direction!

Other Posts In This Series

How I Trained My Farm Dogs

How To Train Farm Dogs

Tips, Tools, and Hacks For Training Farm Dogs

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Hacks, Tips and Tools For Training Farm Dogs

April 2, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

In the Training Farm Dogs series, we’ve talked about my pack and qualifications. We’ve talked about the universal truths for successfully training farm dogs. Today, we are going to talk about all of my hacks, tips and tools for training farm dogs. This is an affiliate link heavy post, especially when it comes to the tools section. If you would like to review our affiliate disclosure, you can do so here.

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Do You Need Hacks, Tips and Tools For Training Farm Dogs?

Well, to be completely honest, you don’t. You could absolutely work your way through this with your dogs and probably do just fine. But since you clicked on my post, you are looking for pointers on how to get your dog to be the best version of themselves. Plus, who wouldn’t want to give their dog the freedom of being off leash and out of confinement?!

We moved out to the middle of nowhere to be able to live life the way we wanted. We homeschool our boys to give them the best chance of being well rounded adults that know how to THINK. We want the same for our dogs. So no, you don’t need my hacks, tips and tools for train farm dogs. But if it helps ONE person and their dog work together, I’m all about it.

Before we get too far into this, I have a great course on the basics of goat care. I call it Goat Crash Course: Goat 101. In this course, I explain things like types of shelter, types of feeds and hays, basic assessments and so much more! Check it out!

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Hacks And Tips For Training Farm Dogs

I wish there was a magic pill, potion or spell to be able to understand dogs and them to understand us. It would make training SO much easier. But at this point in my life, there is no such thing, so I will continue to use my instincts, reasoning, and knowledge to work with dogs. And I’m going to share all of that with you.

Hack #1: The fastest way to train your dog is with a reward that THEY want. If your dog is toy driven, use toys to train. If they don’t like treats, don’t give them treats! Blu responds best to praise. Kodi will only sit for treats. Bear just wants to be left alone so training has to be fast. Fenrir is a puppy who doesn’t have a clue what he wants.

Hack #2: No two dogs are alike, don’t train every dog the same. You will set them up for failure. You will learn how to train your dog by building a bond with them first… See Hack #3.

Hack #3: Build the bond/ relationship with your dog FIRST! Training comes after the bond is solid. The reason why the bond comes before the training is because if you start working a dog that you don’t know, you have NO idea what will work for them. Bear used to be treat driven, now he’s 11 and doesn’t care about treats, toys, or praise. He wants to hang out. But because our bond is solid, we both know that the training is going to be short, sweet and to the point…. and it’s not going to happen that often because he’s damn near perfect.

Hack #4: If you need total obedience from your dog, you are on the wrong blog…. Probably should have put that one first. Farm dogs need to be able to THINK and that comes from building your bond with the dog AND their training.

PS: if you have never watched a dog work through a problem on their own, I highly recommend watching videos on watching cattle dogs actually working or a LGD guarding. It is amazing.

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Tip #1: Don’t be afraid to ask for help! I have been training dogs for a long time, but when Blu was giving us problems as a pup, I wasn’t afraid to reach out when I had exhausted every thing I knew.

Tip #2: Negative reinforcement is a tool that is 100% necessary when it comes to training and protecting your dog. Use it wisely. I talk about life and death training and negative reinforcement more here.

Tip #3: Learn your dogs boundaries (or crazy) and work within those boundaries. Learn WHEN to push those boundaries and when to let that boundary lie. Sometimes managing the crazy is better than breaking the bond.

Tip #4: Train your dogs separately. Do not think for one second that because all but one of your dogs know STAY, you will successfully get them to ALL do it while your training the last dog. Seriously, save yourself the frustration and train separately. Once everyone is trained, you can absolutely bring them together and work them. But don’t do it to start.

Tip #5: Overcoming the pack mentality is HARD. Just for clarification, when I say the pack mentality, I mean when all of your dogs are together. To give you an example of this, Kodi does not chase chickens. But Blu does. When Blu breaks her training and chases after a chicken, Kodi and Fenrir are right there with her. Bear is looking on like, “Y’all are a bunch of idiots” and goes back to sleep.

As of this writing, it’s the same with the goats. Kodi and Blu do not chase the goats, but Fenrir does. When Fenrir goes after the babies, Blu and Kodi will SOMETIMES get riled up. This is quickly squashed but it is something that we are working on with Fenrir. This is part of Fenrir’s training and he is doing VERY well with it.

Tip #5: Do not train the bark or growl from your dog. I don’t know why people do this but there are people out there that actively train their dogs not to bark or growl. When they do that, they are encouraging the dog to bite. Then they are going to wonder WHY their dog bit them or their kids.

Because I am specifically talking about training farm dogs, I am going to keep this advice related to the farm. That being said, your dog barking is telling you that there is a problem. This could be the mailman coming into the driveway or this could be a freaking BEAR! Do NOT tell your dog to stop barking without getting up to first check what they are barking at.

Also pay attention to HOW they are barking. Just like with babies, you can tell the difference between the barks. The happy bark means Jared or the mailman is here (our UPS guy gives the dogs treats). The snapping/snarling bark means predators. The chuffing bark means there’s something out there but I don’t know what.

I teach the Quiet command to my dogs. I look at what they are barking about, if I can’t see what they are barking about, I will say Quiet. If they are still going, I will LEASH them and go see what it is.

Tip #6: Teach your dog to NICELY take treats from you. This is a general dog tip not necessarily a farm dog thing but I can tell you that it has saved my fingers over the years. Even Diesel, my most food aggressive dog, would take food so sweetly.

To give you some context as to why this command is literally the FIRST thing I teach my dogs is because my dogs are huge and I have kids:

Dodger, my very first dog, was a Great Dane/ Lab mix who weighed a whooping 120#.

Next was Sammy, a Malinois/ Shepherd who weighed in at 80#.

Then Lexi, a Great Dane/ Lab at 110#.

Diesel was about 100#.

Shiloh was about 130# in the winter and 115# in the summer. Malamutes are no joke with that coat.

Blu is 110#

Kodi is 120#

Fenrir is 80#

Bear is 75#

Since my dogs have always been, and will probably always be huge dogs, I didn’t want them to snatch food from my kids as they walked by. I also didn’t want them to bite my kids hands off.

Tractor Supply

To teach this command, all you do is cover most of the treat with your hand or fingers. Yes, they are probably going to chomp on your fingers, but hold steady. Do NOT let them have the treat until they gently take it from you. Give the command, “Nice” as they are taking the treat. If they are too rough, you take the treat back and give them your no command. My “No” is some version of AH-AH.

I have been known to pry open the dog’s mouth and grab that treat back if they aren’t nice enough. Dogs usually catch on pretty quickly to the nice command and it’s a good safe guard if little ones are around.

Tools For Training Farm Dogs

First and foremost, I do not recommend things that I do not purchase, use, or like without telling you first. This goes for books, homesteading, gardening, companies, you name it. If for some reason I am recommend something that I have not purchased, used, or like, I am going to tell you that the recommendation came from X person and here are their credentials.

Let’s start with the second most controversial thing….

The E Collar

The reason that this is the second most controversial tool is because so many people have misused it. But I absolutely LOVE e collars. We rarely use the shock feature and only as a last resort. This is the one that we have used for the last two years and the one I will continue to purchase. I love the fact that this particular collar reports to have a range of about 3,300 feet. I can confirm 2,000 feet. The battery lasts weeks as long as you don’t stick it on a charger over night. Usually, it’s charged up in less than 30 minutes.

The trick with the e collar is have solid training done FIRST and then bring in the collar. When teaching recall, always start with the dog leashed. The very last thing you need is the dog panicking and taking off.

The Prong Collar

THIS is the most controversial tool on this list and, again, it’s because it has misused. Prong collars are not to be used as a dog’s every day collar. It is a training tool. This is the collar that I use when I am teaching leash manners or we are doing training.

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Again, I have huge dogs. Dogs that can absolutely mangle you, me, or any animal if they so choose. I also have goats, ducks, and chickens. I need that dog to be perfect on leash to protect them, my family and my animals. This is life or death. So, while we are teaching them to walk on leash, we use a prong collar.

My dogs know that it is time for training when the collar is on. I have their undivided attention and that is key to successful training.

The trick with the prong collar is NOT to yank them around by the collar or leash. This will hurt them. We don’t want that. We use gentle pressure to get them to do what we want and we PRAISE them when they do it. I can hook any leash to any of my dogs with a prong and get them to do whatever I want without ever hurting them.

Leashes

While this may seem like a no brainer, you would be surprised how many people are clueless when it comes to what kind of leashes to use. Now, the goal is off leash while ON property. But there are going to be times when the dog has to be leashed. Things like a trip to Tractor Supply or the vet require leashes. Teaching off leash training requires leashes.

So what kind of leashes do you need? Well, to be honest, a few different kinds.

Normal, every day leash. I believe that every leash should be at least 1 inch wide. I don’t care the size of the dog, I want as much strength in that leash as possible. Depending on the size of the dog or the training that is happening, will determine the length that you need.

Long line training leash– Again, I want this to be as thick as possible because if that dog starts running, I want to be able to stop them. I have a couple different lengths depending on the type of training we are doing. I recommend 15ft for the start of off leash training. Side note: do not EVER use a prong collar when doing long line training. If that dog takes off running and that leash “catches” them, you will have a dead dog.

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Leash for teaching walking– This is really going to depend on your height and your dogs height. I am 5’8 and all of my dogs come up to about mid thigh to mid hip on me. So these short leashes are perfect. I use these leashes with the prong collar when I am teaching them how to walk with me. Or if we are going out in public, I will use these with a prong to keep the dogs with me and not have to have 5 feet of leash to keep up with.

No No Leashes:

Do not, I repeat DO NOT! EVER put your dog on a retractable leash. Those things snap and your dog is gone. These leashes work by having a small, thin cord that retracts or releases….. Imagine this scenario with me; you have your dog on a retractable leash and they are relatively well behaved. You are walking Fido and have him extended about 20 feet. He gets a little too close to the neighbors cow and you can’t pull him back because the reel has jammed. The cow kicks him…. Fido is, best case stunned or a little injured. Worse case, Fido is mangled or dead.

Bungee Leashes…. I’m sorry, but why even bother with a leash? You have limited control over your dog with a bungee leash. Now, I have one and I HATE it. I bought it because a friend who runs with their dog recommended it….. Let me tell you, that was the most frustrating run me AND Shiloh ran. He would go just far enough that it would yank me or him back to the other. Or I had to pull the “slack” out of the bungee to get him to come back. Just don’t bother.

Tractor Supply

Collars

We’ve already talked about prong collars but I wanted to talk about the various types of collars that you could have for your dogs on farm.

First, and my favorite, is a handled collar. Again, all of my dogs are huge and come up about mid thigh to mid hip on me, that means that the collar is right at hand level for me. There have been a surprising amount of times that I have had to snag collars on my dogs over the years and having that handle has been GREAT!

When it comes to collars, I don’t necessarily have any other ones that I like or don’t like. Instead, I’m going to give you what I look for in collars and why to help you make your decisions.

Never, ever, ever a plastic closure. Sure, small dogs may not have to worry about the closure snapping, but I will NOT have a plastic closure for my dogs.

Again, nothing less than 1″ wide. I want to grab a collar and know it’s going to hold.

One more thought on closures, I don’t necessarily mind the belt buckle type closure like this one. But like most belts, the holes stretch out with use. So keep that in mind when you are picking up collars. Also, the seatbelt style (like the handle collar linked above) have worked great for me over the years. I really like them. But it’s not a make or break choice when it comes to the collar.

Lastly, metal leash hooks. Plastic breaks. Don’t get plastic ANYTHING when it comes to dogs.

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Electric Fences, Halo Collar, And Other Similar Containment Systems

I would be remise if I did not mention containment systems and I am nothing if not thorough. Here are my thoughts on containment systems: I don’t have them and don’t use them… for my dogs. That being said, I am not opposed to them. My dogs are indoor dogs unless we are outside, where they are off leash. We have too many animals and too many predators to leave my dogs outside unattended. But that is my personal thing.

But if I were to choose a containment system for them, I would definitely look at the HALO system. Yes, it is incredibly expensive. BUT it doesn’t rely on power or mobile networks to work. So even up here, where cell service is spotty at best, it works. Even if the power goes out or the mobile network goes down, my dogs still have a fence.

Basically, it uses satellites to create a fence for your dog. So even if your power goes out, your fence is still up. You can read all about the Halo system here. It uses various alerts (voice, vibrate, chimes, beeps, etc) to let your dog know they are getting too close to the fence. If the dog goes over the boundary, it doesn’t punish them for coming back over (which is a major con to most electric fences). And it can sense the direction they are traveling, so if the dog starts to come back home, it “lessens” the commands for coming home. If the dog changes directions to go away from home, it changes the command to tell them to come back. If the dog REALLY takes off, it uses satellites to track them so you can find them.

But that price tag ($700+ subscription fees) is hard to justify. Especially with 4 mostly well trained dogs.

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I hope this post helps you and your dog on the road to off leash and out of confinement life! Be sure to check out the other posts in the Training Farm Dogs Series!

Other Posts In The Farm Dog Series:

How I Trained My Farm Dogs

How To Successfully Train Farm Dogs

If you like the content I put out, feel free to buy us a coffee! It helps keep this site running, marketing and the goats in grain!

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Filed Under: Animals, Farm Dogs Tagged With: dogs, farm dogs, Homestead, training farm dogs

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How I Train My Farm Dogs

March 26, 2024 by Leigh Leave a Comment

I was going to tell you all the tips and tricks that I have learned raising dogs and training farm dogs first. But as I started writing I realized that you probably don’t me, my farm or my dogs. So instead of starting with all the tips, tricks and things that you should do, I’m going to tell you how I trained my farm dogs, show you my pack, tell you how I trained them and some stories. As this series goes on, I am going to go more in depth about everything I know from successfully training your farm dog to best breeds, tools, hacks, and the actual training of dogs. So make sure to sign up for our newsletter to be alerted to those posts!

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How I Train My Farm Dogs: Some Details First

There are a ton of people moving to the country and purchasing property right now. They are getting into homesteading and gardening. Which is awesome! Except they don’t really know what to do with their dogs. Most city rules don’t apply in the country and it can be a hard transition. But one of the big things I see a lot is people thinking their dog can’t become a farm dog. That’s simply not true. It’s not hard to train farm dogs but it does take a far amount of work.

I am going to introduce you to my pack, then I’m going to tell you about some of our difficulties, and finally I’m going to talk about some of the tools that we use to work with our dogs and get their training up to speed.

What Is A Farm Dog

There is a huge difference between a city dog and a country dog. Just like there is a difference between a country dog and a farm dog. Then the biggest difference is between a farm dog and a livestock guardian dog (LGD). But at the end of the day, any dog can be a farm dog with the right training.

A farm dog is really just a dog that can live on a farm. They don’t have to be working dogs. And they don’t have to be GREAT with livestock or poultry but they can’t harm them. They need to be able to be off leash/ lead and I’ll explain more why that is important below. For some dogs, that’s an easy bar to hit. Other dogs, that may seem absolutely impossible.

Putting Titles On Your Dog

As of this writing, I have four farm dogs. I make the distinction between a working dog, farm dog, livestock dog and “regular” dog because they are all totally different. A “regular” dog is the dog you have in your backyard. They are a companion animal and rarely anything more.

But when you start putting titles on your dog and expecting them to do a job, you need to make sure that dog is equipped to handle it. For example, if you get a Heeler and don’t give it a job, it can become a disaster. But at the same time, if you have a couch potato breed like an English Bulldog, and expect it to round up your cattle? Equally as disappointing.

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My dogs all have different titles and roles on the farm. Each dog does something really well, others not so much. I call it managing their crazy. I know that Fenrir cannot be put in the goat pen alone, so I don’t put him in the goat pen alone. Blu cannot handle being unsupervised with the poultry, so we don’t let her stay outside alone. You just have to manage their crazy and see where you can push their boundaries without breaking them.

How I Train My Farm Dogs

The Bear Bear

Bear is the oldest at 11 and has been raised as a city dog his whole life. He is, what I call, a pound special. We have absolutely no idea what he is mixed with, though we can guess. He took to farm life like everything else we have thrown at him. There was no running away, his recall is damn near perfect and he doesn’t care about livestock or poultry coming up to him. He is my definition of a perfect dog.

Training Bear was really easy because I have spent the last 11 years telling him exactly what I wanted him to do. From the time we brought him home from the pound at 6 weeks old, he took to training beautifully. When we moved to the farm, he already knew my “no” commands. He knew how to sit, down, and stay. So all I really needed to do was get him to come when I called him.

At this point in Bear’s life, I am not super worried about him not coming immediately when I call him. I trust that he isn’t going to run off, hurt the animals, etc. He’s 11 years old, all he wants to is hangout with me and sleep in the sun.

Training Blu

Next is Blu. She is a German Shepherd/ Great Pyrenees cross and she is 3. She is the first female dog I have had in a decade…. and she will be the last. While she is a damn good dog, she has been extra challenging to raise up. Part of that is the shepherd, part is the Pyrenees, and the last part is because she came to us at 4 weeks old. To this day, she chases chickens but her recall is just about perfect and she can be trusted with the goats.

The day we moved to the farm, I went and picked up Blu. Her breeder wanted the pups gone by 4 weeks old which is absolutely not ideal. In fact, dogs really should be with mom until 12 weeks old, but it is what it is.

Her training consisted of her becoming our shadow on the farm. That meant that she was leashed to us when we went outside or on the lead/ long line if we needed to be able to move around without her tripping us up. Once she learned recall, we put her on an e collar. It took her a while to full learn recall by the chime on the collar but eventually she did. Unfortunately, Blu is extremely stubborn and we have had to use the electric feature (always as a last resort) to pull her off the chickens.

Also, I knew that we were going to have chickens and ducks. But when she was about 12 weeks old, we brought goats to the farm. She learned a very valuable lesson when she started barking and growling at Bella. Bella rammed and rolled her. While I didn’t love it, and I knew that it could cause a fear response in Blu towards the goats, it worked exactly how I wanted. Because Bella rammed and rolled Blu, she taught Blu a lesson that we just couldn’t: sometimes the prey fights back. Blu is significantly more leery of the goats.

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Training Kodiak

Then we have Kodi (or Kodiak). This is Chase’s dog, my favorite Grand-pup and the largest of all the dogs. Kodi came from the pound and was labeled a St. Bernard. He’s actually a Leonberger and is fantastic with literally anyone that comes to the farm. He’s great with the goats and poultry. In fact the only “downside” about him is that he is a runner. Which is how we got him from the pound in the first place.

Kodi’s training was longer in some areas but was lightening fast in others. For example, he was immediately great with the animals and livestock. But his off leash training is still a work in progress 2 years later. He’s got great recall about 99% of the time. But that 1%? He’s gone.

But I can take him into the goat pens without a single worry. Baby goats absolutely love him and he loves them. In fact, I asked Chase (it’s his dog after all) if he would be willing to let Kodi stay outside and be an LGD… But he said no.

Training Fenrir

Lastly, we have my beloved Fenrir. Fen is new to the farm. We got him in August of 2023 and he has become an absolutely amazing farm dog. I have a tendency to find and fall in love with rescues, which can lead to really big issues on a farm. Fortunately, Blu and Fenrir are best buddies and he follows her around. This is great when it comes to recall but kind of sucks because he shares her tenacity to chase chickens.

Unfortunately, Fenrir has really, REALLY bad hips. He has pretty severe hip dysplasia. The kind where no matter how careful we are with keeping his weight under control, exercise in moderation, supplements, etc he could jump off the couch and break his hip.

As far as his training, we are focusing on his animal training right now. He is okay around the big goats because they will ram him when he gets too close or rowdy. The babies are squeaky toys so when they start bouncing and screaming, it freaks him out. So I take him into the goat pens and just hang out with him. By keeping everything calm, he gets to become familiar with the baby goats and everything stays positive. The chickens will take longer but ultimately a firm “No” when he starts chasing is all he needs.

Bringing City Dogs To The Farm

Bear is not the only dog that we brought to the farm when we first bought the property. We also had Diesel and Shiloh. Diesel was Chase’s dog. Diesel loved everyone, but he was Chase’s dog. Those two were thick as thieves. He was a rescue that was so sweet and gentle despite the fact that he was 100+ pounds.

Shiloh was a German Shepherd/ Alaskan Malamute cross. He was my baby and he got me through some REALLY hard times. We would go hiking all the time and I was so excited to bring him to the mountains that we so loved. He was my soul dog. The first dog in my entire life that I felt so connected to it was ridiculous. But within 3 days of bringing them to the farm they ran away, never to be seen again.

Bringing city dogs to the farm is usually not going to be a problem. But sometimes, you just have dogs that are not well suited for this life. Diesel would have killed every single animal that we brought to the property. Shiloh would never have learned recall. While it hurts like hell that we lost them, they were not suited to this life.

While I stand firmly by my statement that any dog can be a farm dog, some dogs will take WAY more effort to train up.

Training My Farm Dogs To Go Off Leash

Before I end this post, I wanted to give you one my tips on how to start training your dog off leash. First and foremost, your dog needs to be “trained” with animals. Because the reality is that if your dog is not good with livestock, the very last thing they need to have is off leash training around livestock. So if Fido won’t “leave” the chickens alone, being off leash just means you have ZERO control over the situation.

Now, assuming that your dog is great with livestock (or you don’t have livestock yet), off leash training starts with your bond with the dog. If your dog isn’t happy to see you, receive love from you, want your attention, etc, it’s going to be really hard to get them to come to you.

If you and your dog are bonded, we start on a long line like this, start with about 15ft. The goal here is to allow them to have enough “rope” to keep the leash slack and then you call the dog. When the dog comes to you, praise them, give them treats and love. Make it a big deal! Then do it again, and again, and again, until the dog comes to you every single time. Then graduate them to a longer line, 30-50ft. And do it again, and again, and again.

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Once you are comfortable with their level of recall, graduate them to an e collar. I’m going to offer some advice with the e collars. I do NOT encourage the use of the shock setting. In fact, with Kodi, I don’t think I’ve ever had to use it. But there are situations in which using the shock setting is necessary. Like your dog attacking an animal, about to get hit by a car, or other life or death situations, which I talk about in this post. If you feel it necessary to use the shock feature, start at the lowest setting and work your way up. We aren’t trying to hurt them, just break their attention off the thing and on to you.

This is the collar that we use for our dogs. Now is the time to be extremely patient. Some dogs don’t care about beeping, other dogs will panic. Same thing with the vibrate and shock. How I train my dogs on the e collar is to work on a long line (30ft) and continue work on their recall. I will recall and do the beep. When they come to me, I praise like crazy. And then do it again, and again, and again.

Tip: If they play fetch, this is the PERFECT time to work with the e collar because they are getting rewarded every time they hear the beep.

Once they have perfect, or near perfect recall, I will take off the leash. I will not them get more then 5ft away before recalling them. And then praise, give treats, a toy, whatever they want. And then do it again and again and again. Once they come back, I graduate their “invisible” leash around me. I let them go 10ft, 15ft, and so on until they come back EVERY TIME. This can be nerve racking but trust the process.

If the dog panics with the beep button, I just talk to them and work through the fear. Or, I will change the tone of the beep to something softer. Which is why I really like the e collar I linked above. It has a range of settings to fit the dog. Normally, the beeping or vibrate is just scary because it’s new. After a little bit, they won’t mind it so much.

I really hope this helps you and your dog become successful on your farm. Just remember, every dog can be a farm dog as long as you are willing to put in the work.

Other Posts From Training A Farm Dog Series

How I Train My Farm Dogs

How To Train Farm Dogs

Tips, Tools and Hacks For Training Farm Dogs

Best Breeds For Farm Dogs

Commands For Training Farm Dogs

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Filed Under: Animals, Farm Dogs Tagged With: dog training, dogs, farm dogs, farm life, Homestead

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